Automotive Article Directory

Carburetors

Scott Brunson — Tue, 01 May 2012 14:59:34 +0000

There are two types of carburetors: fixed choke and continuous depression, the introductory type, fixed choke carburetors, makes the varying air pressure in the crusade modify the fuel flow; this is the mutual downdraft carburetor found on American and most Japanese cars. The other type, the continuous depression carburetors vary the airflow to modify the fuel jet opening witch in turn altars the fuel flow. A vacuumed operated piston connected to a tapered needle, which slides inside the fuel jet, does this. The most mutual variable choke (constant depression) type carburetor is the side draft SU carburetor, which was simple in principle to adjust and maintain. This rose to a position of domination in the UK car market for that reason. Other similar designs are applied on a heap of European and a few Japanese automobiles.

Although the deviations amidst the two types of carburetors are broad there main function remains, they need to measure the airflow of the engine at any time, and then deliver the rectify amount of fuel to keep the fuel/air mixture perfective and then mix the fuel and air evenly. A carburetor must provide the proper fuel/air mixture beneath a wide potpourri of dissimilar circumstances and engine speed range, random events that will affect the performance of the carburetor may be things like acceleration and cold start, waiting at a red light etc. This will be hard to do when you on top of this will need to maintain as low rates of exhaust emissions as humanly perchance for a poor carburetor.

To function in the right way under all these conditions, most carburetors comprise a complex set of mechanisms to help various dissimilar operating modes, called circuits.

You see, if the car has electronic controlled injection intake rather of a carburetor it will mechanically adjust the intake according to antecedently programmed numbers and algorithms provided by the manufacturer. A carburetor on the other hand will commonly not have any computer components, therefore making the fuel/air mixture controlling rigorously mechanical. Also an injection intake will discerned the air from the fuel permitting it to inject them independently from each other, the carburetor will accomplish both simultaneously as the throttle is opened.

An other divergence amid a carburetor and an injection is the way it is applied when cold starting an engine, when the engine is cold, fuel vaporizes less readily and have a tendancy to condense on the walls of the intake manifold, starving the cylinders of fuel and making the engine difficult to start; thus, a richer mixture (more fuel to air) is required to get started and run the engine until it warms up. In an injection engine a computer will control this automatically, but again the carburetor has to do this manually, hence you will see a choke on a carbureted car and normally not in an injection based car.

Carburetors Image

Carburetors Picture

Carburetors Image

Carburetors Photo

You Can Install A Performance Exhaust System

admin — Tue, 01 May 2012 14:59:34 +0000

What does BPU(TM) stand for? (BPU(TM) is a trademark of SupraStore.com)

Basic Performance Upgrades. These modifications are: A full length three inch down-pipe (with or with-out high flow cats), 3″ (75mm) or larger cat-back exhaust system, raised boost (18psi), and the required boost cut eliminator (GReddy BCC) necessitated to achieve that boost without activating the factory fuel cut-off at 14-15psi. These are the modifications that have proven to provide the best HP-to-$$$ ratio.

What does the + mean when someone says BPU(TM)+? And what is APU?

That stands for any further and added power constructing modifications other than the basic BPU(TM) modifications. One “+” refers to Adj. Cam Gears and under-drive pulleys, the second “+” refers to a Fuel controller, ECU upgrade, etc. For instance, a Supra with the BPU(TM) modifications, plus a front-mount intercooler, would be called BPU(TM)+. If you added cam gears to that, it would be BPU(TM)++, and so on. The “BPU(TM)” term is used until you have an upgraded turbo(s). Then it is referred to as APU, modern performance upgrades. This identification gorgeous much covers each modification that may be performed.

What are the firstborn engine modifications I must perform?

I commend starting with raising the boost of the stock turbos to roughly 18psi. This will require a quality boost gauge and a boost cut eliminator (GReddy BCC). You will achieve 15 or so PSI with the stock Down Pipe in place. This will provide an addition of approximately 30rwhp. After those modifications are completed, it would be a logical next step to install the Down Pipe and Cat-Back Exhaust at the same time. You will now be at full BPU(TM).

What do all the respective “Free Mods” do?

There are a lot of dissimilar “free mods” for the Supra TT. I will cover just a few of them here. The ones I will cover fall into three categories, boost control, EGR disabling, and TTC or True Twin Conversion.

Three of the boost control mods are: Bleeder-T Mod, Clamp Mod, and the VSV Bypass Mod. Each of these modifications raise boost levels without the use of a boost controller. But you have to keep a close eye on your boost gauge, and make sure they are not permitting the turbos to boost too high (18psi is a safe level).

The next mods, are the unfeigned twin conversion mods (or TTC). This modification disables the Sequential twin turbo operation, and causes the turbos to run constantly in parallel (both on at the same time). This is supposed to concede for somewhat better mid-range power (before the secondary turbo would normally come online) and allows for a smoother power band, without the abrupt boost increase caused by the transition from necessary to secondary operation. However, this does noticeably decrease low-end power, and increments exhaust noise levels, and consequently may not be desirable on the street. Two types of the TTC mod are, the traditionalisti TTC mod which includes 2 methods, wiring the actuators, or installing a one way valve, and the Electronic TTC mod (ETTC).

The last mod I will talk about is the EGR mod. This disables the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system, which is meant for emissions, and therefore, this modification is for off-road use only. This mod is supposed to prevent the super heating of the number 5 and 6 cylinders, which may cause burnt valves.

How much power will my car make at BPU(TM)?

It varies from car-to-car, and the conditions as well as tuning. Most BPU(TM)-only Supra Twin Turbos, dyno among 370 and 410 horsepower at the rear wheels. This is commonly achieved with moderate temperatures, a reset ECU (to erase anything bad the ECU may have learned), and often a little bit of high-octane un-leaded race fuel. On the street, power will be reduced, in particular in poor weather, but at least 90 percent of the power must be retained.

What kind of 1/4 mile ETs and trap speeds will have to I run at BPU(TM)-only?

It varies WIDELY depending on driver skill. As well as track conditions, elevation above sea level, ambient temperatures, humidity, and pre-race preparation. But most fall amid 12.3 to 12.9 ets with 112 to 119mph trap speeds on street tires. Times may drop well into the 11s with drag radials, a good driver, and good conditions, as well as proper pre-race preparation.

What is a BPU(TM)’d Supra TT’s top speed?

Speeds in the mid-high 180mph range ought to be achievable. Once the speed-limiter is disabled, by pulling the “TRAC” fuse of course.

Will the life of my Engine and Drivetrain be adversely affected with the BPU(TM) mods?

Yes, but not by a significant amount. If the car is maintained properly, and the car is treated with numerous respect for the components, you will have to maintain much of the power train’s life. Which giving careful consideration to the fact that the Supra is by far one of the most dependable and lasting sports cars, it will last longer than most well maintained STOCK sports cars. The only Drivetrain constituents that will see a significantly shortened life will be the stock clutch. It will more than likely not last much longer than 8-10k miles once at BPU(TM). This peculiarly holds unfeigned if the car is making repeated high speed runs using 5th and 6th gear at wide open throttle. If your stock clutch has high mileage on it, or is already starting to slip, you will need to plan on a new high-performance clutch. Also the stock turbos will be subject to a more or less shortened life span (how short will depend on how you drive and maintain the car, as well as how much boost you will run)

What’s the reliability of a 600hp Supra Turbo?

Chassis, electrical, and suspension parts will have to see little effect on reliability on street driven Supras. The stock 2JZ-GTE engine must hold up beauteous well to this power level. Just how long depends on maintenance, and how hard you drive it, and how often. But specifically Supras may go for years at this power level. The transmission reliability will depend on whether it’s an Automatic or Manual. A stock automatic will not hold this much power, a built transmission will be required, and it’s reliability will depend on it’s design and construction. The 6spd Manual must hold up just fine, as well as the rear differential and axles.

The only real reliability worries at these low power levels would surround the actual modifications you perform. Excluding installation short-comings, the elements utilized, even very high quality ones, may fall short of factory element reliability, as the built in compromises that subsist in everything, would lean more towards the side of uttermost performance, than of extreme reliability (Keep in mind we are talking when it comes to a Toyota here, whose reliabilty standards are particularly high) This may include fuel scheme components, turbo components, and particularly electronic wizardry. Basically a set-up that is either VERY well conceived, or utilizes OE elements as much as possible, without over burdening them, would posses *near* stock reliability. And tuning of the components, and element selection, and matching, would play a HUGE role in this.

What are the power limits of the respective factory parts (Differential, Transmission, Motor, etc.)?

There have actually not been sufficient failures to actually pin point a limit for the respective power-train components. The motor could fail at factory power levels if it was running dangerously lean. But when well tuned, the motors internals (Pistons, Rods, Crank, Head Gasket etc) are dependable to 700rwhp. But of course at these power levels, if the engine is not set-up and tuned properly, it is in a literal sense a bomb waiting to go off, nonetheless this would be just as true with a built motor. Some owners have pushed their stock internals to the limit and have well exceeded 800rwhp, and even neared 900rwhp. I still don’t perceive how such an over built motor made it past the bean counters at Toyota Corporate.

The 6-speed Getrag is ridiculously strong for an OE transmission. Its limit’s will be affected principally by driving technique, such as launching, and whether or not power shifting is used. Even driven hard, the Getrag must hold up reasonably well with 700RWHP. If you treat it with a lot of respect, it will have to be capable to handle around 800RWHP or more, even though great care and respect will need to be practiced at those levels.

Differential, axle, CV Joint, and drive shaft failures are a VERY rare occurrence. So I don’t have much info on their failure limits. On street tires, it would be almost totally unlikely to break any of these parts at ANY power level. The tires would spun before they would put the driveline under that kind of strain. The tires act sort of like a circuit breaker. If you run drag slicks, this does not hold true of course, yet they have proven themselves to be 10 and even 9 second capable.

Will drivability, interior noise levels, and low-end power be adversely affected with the BPU(TM) mods?

Drivability is not adversely affected. Interior noise level depends on the exhaust system you choose. Some will make it far louder; a lot of will genuinely make it quieter. But most are just a little bit louder than stock. But the added dBs are likewise combined with a MUCH sweeter exhaust note, so it’s unquestionably worth it. And the interior of the Supra is beauteous quiet anyway, so on the highway, it will be VERY livable. As far as low-end power goes, the down-pipe will primarily decrease Turbo Lag. So low-end power and response is much bettered over stock.

Will emissions be adversely affected by the BPU(TM) mods?

As long as a high-flow cat is used, emissions will have to not be effected, and you will have to still pass visual inspection. If you run without catalytic converters, you are doing so at your own risk, and you would not pass visual or emissions testing.

Will fuel mileage be adversely affected by the BPU(TM) mods?

If driven calmly, as in light throttle, mileage must not be significantly affected. Mileage will primarily decrease for the duration of however, if you drive “vigorously”, more power equals more burned fuel I am afraid.

Should I install an “Intake” (Open Element Filter)?

This is a bit of a yes and no answer. The stock filter assemblage is a flow restriction, and an open element intake would increase potential flow. However, it will likewise draw in more heated engine compartment air, which may hurt performance. My counsel is to either modify the stock filter box, or install a cool air induction box, like the Max Air. An added bonus of the open factor filters, is that they grant you to effortlessly listen the indispensable turbo and by-pass valve.

What in regards to the stock intercooler?

The stock intercooler does a decent occupation up till when it comes to 17psi on the stock turbos, after that you would in all likelihood detect a substantial gain, exceptionally in warmer temperatures, with a nice front mount intercooler. However, keep in mind it will block a lot of of the airflow to the radiator, as well as decreasing response slightly.

Should I replace the factory rubber Intercooler hoses with aftermarket metal hoses?

It wouldn’t hurt. But it won’t support a lot either. At the most you may somewhat increase throttle response, but at least it will look nicer.

What when it comes to the fuel system, are the stock injectors and fuel pump huge sufficient for BPU(TM)?

Yes, the stock fuel system is very safe and authenti to 450RWHP, though I would commend a fuel pulsation damper bypass. Anything over that, and I would highly commend having the car dyno’d, and using a wide-band O2 sensor (not a cheap A/F gauge connected to the stock O2) to check the fuel proportionality at your high boost setting. 11.5:1 would be a safe fuel ratio.

What are the stock injectors ranked at?

540cc/min

Would the Supra gain from a fuel controller?

BPU(TM)’d Supras run a little on the rich side as far as fuel ratios go. This hurts power. What it does do is provide a safety margin that makes engine harm through detonation unlikely. If you get a fuel controller, and tune it the right way (on a dyno, with an exact EGT gauge, and a high band O2 (The Stock O2 sensors are not accurate), then you ought to be competent to gain a noticeable amount of power. One of the most standard electronic fuel controllers is the A’PEXi S-AFC. The Fields SFC is good too.

What will have to I use to increase my boost level, an Electronic Boost Controller, or a Manual BC?

Using an EBC is the safest way to raise boost, it will prevent spiking and over-boosting. But it genuinely comes down to your budget. If you may afford an EBC, get one. If you can’t, go with a MBC. And always keep an eye on that boost gauge. And whatsoever you are using to control boost, do not forget to not get carried away, I don’t commend going steadily over 18psi.

What is the best Electronic Boost Controller?

There genuinely is no BEST. Although the A’PEXi AVC-R is a nice unit, it provides much more control over boost than other EBCs, but it is also more complex to install, and tune. The new Blitz unit is also nice. Most of the big makers make decent units. Just stay clear from fuzzy-logic equipped models if you still have the sequential stock turbos, they will become “confused” by the unnatural conduct of the sequential system.

When installing my EBC, do I connect it to both of the Turbo’s Wastegates?

The Primary Turbo is the only one with a wastegate. When in full twin turbo mode, the boost of both Turbos is regulated by the indispensable turbo’s wastegate. So, only connect it to the Primary’s.

Some persons say I need to replace my ECU with a reprogrammed one, rather of just using a boost controller. Do I?

Reprogrammed ECUs for the Supra TT are VERY $$$. They are in the $1200 range. And they have not been proven to provide a significant increase in performance or safety on BPU(TM) level cars. Their merit shows itself on cars with upgraded Turbo(s). Just be sure you buy your ECU, or have it reprogrammed by a reputable shop that knows what they are doing. And have it tailored to your queer car (Driving habits, and Mods). And I would likewise commend taking a look at the AEM Programmable system.

What is a safe boost level to run at BPU(TM)?

The popular consensus is 17-18psi. Some persons have taken it higher, but I don’t commend it if you don’t have the cash for a turbo replacement/upgrade.

Which Down-Pipe is recommended?

The RMM (or Rod Millen Motorsports) Cat-less Downpipe is the most normally used. However a great deal of other brands exist. Some down-pipes, such as the Random Technology DP, feature an emissions legal high-flow catalytic converter.

Will a high-flow cat hurt performance?

It will have galore effect on power output, but not a lot. Its precise effect on HP is not clear, but it probably costs a few hp at the most, perchance 5-15hp at BPU(TM) power levels.

What is a Down-Pipe?

It is the division of the exhaust system that connects the outlet of the Turbocharger’s Turbine division to the “Cat-Back” exhaust system. The Downpipe is also where the two catalytic converters are located, as well as the O2 sensor (or sensors in OBD-II cars).

I have an OBD2 car. Can I still install a Down-Pipe?

Yes. But unless the DP has a Catalyst and a second emplacement for an O2 sensor, you will trip your check engine light, unless you get one of those O2 “black boxes”.

Which Exhausts are the loudest?

The Tanabe Racing Medallion, and HKS Hiper Titanium seem to be the two loudest systems.

Which Exhausts are the quietest?

The Tanabe Hyper Medallion, the discontinued Tanabe G-Power Medallion and the GReddy (SP) Street Performance seem to be the quietest. At anything less than full throttle, they are no louder than stock. But at full throttle they seem to “wake up” a bit.

What are numerous commended exhaust systems?

It depends on your personal preferences. Below I will break down some of my recommendations based on sure compoundings of preferences.

Subtle Styling / Very Low Cost:

-Random Technology (75mm, full stainless steel)

Subtle Styling / Low Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-GReddy Street Performance (80mm)

-Tanabe Super Hyper Medallion (80mm, full stainless steel, 50-state legal)

Subtle Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-ATR (75mm, full stainless steel)

Tasteful Styling / Low-Moderate Sound Level / Low Cost:

-HKS Dragger II (85mm)

Tasteful Styling / Low-Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-GReddy Power Extreme (80-94mm)

-HKS Super Dragger (95mm)

Tasteful Appearance / Moderate Sound Level / High Cost / Super Light:

-Veilside Tear Drop Titanium (90mm, full titanium)

Tasteful-Wild Styling / Low Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-TRD 2nd gen.

Wild Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Low Cost:

-A’PEXi N1

-HKS Hiper (75mm)

Wild Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-A’PEXi GT Spec (95mm, full stainless steel)

-Blitz NUR Spec (80mm, full stainless steel)

-HKS Hiper Carbon/Titanium (75mm, CF wrapped muffler, titanium tip)

Wild Styling / High Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-Tanabe Racing Medallion (80mm, 50 state legal)

Wild Styling / High Sound Level / High Cost / High Flow:

-HKS Hiper Titanium (104mm, titanium muffler)

What is the most inexpensive route to replacing the DP and Cat-Back?

Have a habit performance exhaust shop invent a finish 3″ exhaust system (Turbo-to-Tip). It ought to cost well less that $400. And then you may use the muffler and exhaust tip of your choice.

Which Fuel Cut Eliminator is recommended?

The GReddy BCC (Boost Cut Controller) is highly recommended.

What does the Fuel Cut Eliminator do?

The factory ECU is programmed to activate a fuel cut if the manifold pressure surpasses 14-15psi. It does this as a safety measure to prevent what the ECU sees as over boosting. The Fuel Cut Eliminator efficaciously eliminates, or at least raises the cut to a higher pressure. A reprogrammed ECU may also eliminate this function.

Which boost gauge is recommended?

Any high quality boost gauge will work well. Accuracy is the crucial feature to look for. Autometer gauges are a good value. The Japanese gauges, A’PEXi, GReddy, HKS, etc., have more features, but at a much higher price.

Where may the boost gauge be installed in the interior?

If you want to mount it in the dash, the two most general places are the Clock emplacement (which holds a 52mm gauge), and the Air Vent besides it (which holds a 60mm gauge). You may also use an A-Pillar gauge pod.

What is the stock boost pressure?

11-12psi

Are Cam Gears a good modification for the Supra TT?

Yes, they have been shown to provide a 5-15rwhp gain on a BPU(TM)’d car. But to extract their potential, you must have them tuned, by a welleducated tuner, on a dyno. And most of the power gains will be seen on the exhaust side. I likewise commend buying cam gears which feature 5-bolts.

Are Under Drive Pulley(s) a good modification for the Supra TT?

Most of the crank-shaft under-drive pulleys require the remotion of the factory torsional damper.

This is from MKIV.com :”this is NOT an external (harmonic) balancer, as the crankshaft is totally balanced, rather it dampens both the axial twisting couples invented by the firing pulses, and the radial bending moment from the accessory drive belt.”

Basically this device provides crutial isolation amidst the engine driven accessories, and the crankshaft. However, remotion of this may provide a 10-15rwhp gain, but at a cost for long term use.

Do I need to upgrade the ignition when upgrading to BPU(TM)?

The stock ignition system is VERY competent of providing sufficient fire for a BPU(TM)’d car. The stock ignition system uses 6 huge coils, one for each cylinder. So the scheme is capable of supporting VERY impressive HP levels. You may need to change to a colder range plug with a tighter gap (see below).

What regarding the spark plugs, which are commended at BPU(TM) or higher level?

Basically you want similar plugs as stock, but a cooler heat range and a littler gap. The stock plugs are NGK BKR6EP-11 (2978) and are platinum tipped and have a .044 (1.1mm) gap. The idealisti NGK substitute for a modified Supra would be the BKR7E (6097). It is one range cooler (the ’7′), is non-platinum tipped (the lack of the ‘p’) and has a littler .0315 gap (lack of the ‘-11′). This plug is also called the NGK 6097 and they are somewhat inexpensive. Platinum tipped plugs are not desired for high power applications, Iridium plugs are more preferred. Unfortunately their doesn’t seem to be a BKR8E which might be better for high-HP Supras.

Another good plug to try is the Denso Iridium IK22 or IK24. These plugs may last longer than the above noted NGKs, but are also 6 times as expensive. The stock substitute plug would be the IK20, the IK22 is one step cooler, and the IK24 is two steps cooler than stock. The IK22 would be good for ~400rwhp to ~600rwhp. The IK24 would in all likelihood be a good choice above that. Two other plugs commonly used are the NGK 3330 (BCPR7ES) which differ much more from the specifications of the stock plugs than NGK 6097. Also the Rapid Fire #5 used to be very popular, but are more expensive, don’t last as long, and have fallin out of favor. Both of those plugs have been known to cause slight stumbling at idle. Plugs on Supras do not live long, commonly around 5,000-10,000 miles. So I commend replacing them with each other oil change.

What is the HKS VPC and GCC?

It is an electronic device, which electronically and physically removes the highly restrictive mass airflow sensor from the intake tract. VPC stands for Vein Pressure Converter. The HKS GCC is a device that allows further fine-tuning of the VPC.

Do I need an after-market Blow off Valve?

It is not perfectly required, but it is a good idea. The factory by-pass valve is prone to failure, and an aftermarket BOV is in all probability a wise investment for preventing turbo detrimental compressor surge. And it sounds cool too. However, it ought to be noted that if you still have the factory mass-air flow sensor, a blow-off valve, which is vented to the atmosphere, may cause stumbling among shifts.

Can I run Nitrous Oxide on the Supra TT, even if I am already at BPU(TM) power levels?

Yes. Most persons run 50-75 shot wet manifold systems. If you want to run a higher shot than this, you might want to consider a well-designed direct port system. I have seen as much as a 200-shot employed on one of these systems, and an upgraded fuel system would be a must.

450hp just isn’t enough, what may I do?

Ah the possiblenesses Basically you are only fixed by your imagination, and your wallet. You know what they say, speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?

The real power lies in Single and Twin turbo upgrades, and the choices are limitless. You may either build a mild motor that puts out 450 RWHP all day long with instant boost response, or a 1000+ RWHP monster.

Unfortunately, things begin getting more difficult after simple BPU(TM) modifications. Modification becomes more than “bolt on Downpipe, gain 50hp”. Things like tuning, constituents selection, and corresponding compoundings of constituents become much more important. However, this is the case with ANY high HP car. Actually, even at in particular high power levels, the Supra TT is still requiring little effort to extract power from than almost any other performance car. But it will have to be held in mind, that it wouldn’t be as simple as the BPU(TM) bolt-ons.

If you just want something that will toast that pesky Viper GTS. Then focus on a mild single turbo upgrade (T04S04, T60-1, SP57-SP61). Along with this, you will have to install a front mount intercooler, a fuel controller, fuel pulsation damper bypass and EGT gauge. This is assuming you have done all the BPU(TM) mods, plus BOV, EBC, Cam Gears. With tuning, and a few odds and ends, you will have to be competent to pull 450-500 RWHP (490-580 crank HP) numbers while on a stock fuel system (assuming it is in outstanding condition). This would be a total investment of approximately $6,700-$11,500 in engine/electronic constituents (also includes the proper gauges). If you already have the BPU(TM) mods or FMIC, etc., you will spend less than this. The divergence in prices reflects the cost of higher end parts and addition of a HKS VPC to replace the restrictive stock MAF.

The next level would require a totally upgraded fuel system, and performance cams would be recommended, as well as further electronics (programmable engine management such as the AEM, or VPC/GCC/ECU combo, etc.). This would concede you to run much more spectacular turbos and injectors. You may make it past the 700RWHP range without necessitating to replace the internals of the motor with more inviolable components, even at these power levels, if in the right manner tuned and maintained you will have to retain a reasonable amount of reliability while still on the stock internals, as a great deal of people have overshadowed the 800RWHP level while still running stock bottom ends in their Supras. If you choose to go in front and build up the bottom end, then the skies are the limit as far as power goes. Just make sure to have part selection, installation, and tuning done by capable and experienced persons. Although this will have to hold true at ANY level of modification.

Should I install a Turbo Timer?

Absolutely. Unless you don’t mind sitting in your car while it idles down each single time you need to turn the car off. A Turbo timer keeps the engine running for a preset time once you turn off the ignition. So you may remove your keys, and lock up the car and not have to worry with regards to it, it will shut off on it’s own. This is necessary for the life of the turbos. If the turbos are not given time to cool down, it may overheat the oil and cause coking which will block oil flow to the turbos and harm bearings and cook seals.

How much is the Supra’s power output affected by changes in ambient temperatures?

Very noticeably, just as with most turbo cars, the Supra Twin Turbo may be very temperature sensitive. Especially with the stock turbos and intercooler. On a BPU(TM) car, I would not be amazed to see a 10 percent reduction amid 50-60deg temperatures, and 90deg plus temperatures

Will the stock clutch hold the power levels of a BPU(TM) car?

It depends on the condition and wear on the stock clutch. If it is in good condition, yes, it will hold the power, beauteous well in fact, altho you may experience clutch slip while at full boost in high gears such as 5th and 6th. If you drive vigorously, meaning you run at high boost frequently, then the life of the stocker will be GREATLY shortened. Be amazed if you see an extra 10,000 miles after BPU(TM).

Can I resurface my flywheel when replacing the clutch?

It is not recommended. Buy a new Toyota Flywheel.

Can I install a lightweight flywheel?

Yes, but be conscious that they may fabricate a lot of noise at idle, and may transmit more vibrations and shock to the costly Getrag transmission.

Why is pulling the TRAC fuse beneficial over just turning it off with the switch on the center console?

Just pushing the “Trac Off” button only partially disables the Trac system. It disables the Trac throttle body and TRAC function through the ABS System (on 93.5-96 only), but not the Trac system’s ignition timing retard function. Unplugging the Trac fuse does away with both functions, as well as the 155mph speed limiter, which works through the trac system. The fuse may be found in the main fuse box on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. It must be noted that removing the fuse will cause the TRAC light to stay on, but you’ll get applied to it.

Will the TRAC system improve the cars performance?

NO. The Trac scheme was calibrated to improve traction in slippery conditions. It was not calibrated with performance in mind. When the Trac scheme senses a loss of traction, it comes on hard, cutting power drastically; this will do not one thing but injure performance. I also would not rely on the Trac system for providing stability at high speeds, if you were to loose control, it would be too slow and clumsy, and would more than likely hamper your attempts to regain control.

How may I remove the factory 155mph speed limiter?

Remove the fuse for the Trac system. The speed limiter works through the Trac throttle body.

What is the Supra TT’s top speed with the Trac fuse removed?

There is a heap of debate on this subject. There are rumors that 180 may be achieved. But by going with the numbers, 168-172mph in stock form seems possible.

What is the Supra TT’s greatest or most complete or best possible theoretical top speed? Can it exceed 200mph with sufficient power?

Lets find out.

The Supra TT with the 6-speed has a stock engine redline of 6800rpm, and a 6th gear ratio of .79:1, with a rear axle ratio of 3.13:1. Now we multiply our 6th gear proportionality times our rear axle ratio, and we find out our final gear proportionality is 2.472:1. Now we divide 6800rpm by our total gear reduction of 2.472:1 and we find out our rear axles, and accordingly wheels are spinning at 2751rpm at 6800 engine rpms.

Now we need to calculate our tire circumference. The rear tires division width it 255mm, and the sidewall’s aspect ratio is .40, so our sidewalls are 102mm. Now, to convert this to inches, we divide this by 25.4, which equal’s 4.015 inches. Now multiply this by two, since we have two sidewalls making up the total diameter, and add the wheel diameter of 17″, and we see a total diameter of 25.031 inches. Now to find out our circumference, we multiply that number times pi (3.14), and we find out the circumference is 78.59 inches, now divide that by 12 to convert to feet. And we get 6.549 feet total circumference.

Now multiply our tire’s revolving speed, by the tire’s outside circumference, and we find that the tire is covering 18,016 feet per minute, divide that by the 5280 feet in a mile, and we find we are covering 3.412 miles per minute, now multiply that by the 60 minutes in an hour, and we find we are traveling 204.7miles per hour @ 6800rpm in 6th gear. If the engines redline is increased to 7500rpm, which it often is, because of a higher flowing turbo. Then our greatest or most complete or best possible speed would be 225.8mph, given sufficient power of course.

For more go to Http://www.ausdriftcar.cjb.net

Electronics For Your Vehicle At Sema Show

Jim Teller — Tue, 01 May 2012 14:59:33 +0000

The word “Z71″ may be the RPO code granted to a heap of special off-road package offered by General Motors to buyers. This option was employed the very original time on the GMT400 trucks which were fictitious amongst 1987 and 1998. Later, the same package was adopted on the Chevrolet Blazers and likewise the two-door Chevrolet Tahoe.

The Chevrolet Z71 package included a four wheel drive system, an mechanically locking rear differential, color-coded bumpers, on and off-road tires, fog lamps, five spoke aluminum alloy wheels and “Z71″ badges. Being an optional feature was available the two wheel drive system.

The Chevrolet Tahoe Z71 was fictitious for that fist time in 1999 and was available in both on and off-road driving and terrain versions. This Tahoe Z71 is dependent on the redesigned Silverado pickup platform. The 2000 Z71 was designed with a four speed automatic transmission with overdrive and it is original price was of $38,894. With regards to it is size, this Chevrolet Z71 is 199.6 inches long, 76.8 inches wide and 72.4 inches high while the weight of the Tahoe is when it comes to 5,300 lbs. Getting the SUV look, this car uses a digital power-assist system which helps the motive strength handle the car and a transmission electronic control.

Underneath the hood, the 2000 Chevrolet Tahoe Z71 hosts a 5.7 liters V8 engine which could fabricate 255 horsepower at 4,600 rpm. In addition to this, the engine features a 4.0 inch bore along with a 3.5 inch stroke. The 2000 Tahoe Z71 uses a multi-point fuel injection system and it is gas tank has a 30 gallons capacity. The fuel consumption for that 2000 car is of 12 miles per gallon when you drive within the city as well as only 16 miles per gallons on the highway.

The interior from the 2000 Chevrolet Tahoe Z71 feels safe and spacious. The fabric accustomed to cover the inside from the 2000 Tahoe is leather. The conventional interior includes power locks, front and back power windows, a rear window wiper, an online trunk release and power steering. To improve ease the Chevrolet Z71 comes with height-adjustable seat belts for the front and the rear seats, an illuminated entry system and power height-adjustable seating for the driver and the passengers. Additional features that improve the interior of the 2000 Z71 are the lockable glove box, the front seat cup holders and the usual cruise control. The amusement space is well accentuated through the AM/FM radio that is designed with a CD player and eight speakers.

The 2000 Chevrolet Z71 protects the security measures too, providing a standard package that includes front airbags for the driver and likewise the passenger. To aid the motive strength handle the vehicle, this car comes with four disc brakes with ventilated discs, an antilock braking scheme and an anti-theft shelter system. Furthermore, the Tahoe Z71 uses in addition a full-size chubby tummy. Within the frontal affect crash tests this Chevrolet Z71 received four star ratings.

The Chevrolet Tahoe Z71 is much more powerful, more broad and much more effective than other SUVs. It’s an idealisti car for any group of five and is more elementary to handle on the city’s roads or from the roads. The vehicle may be received with a basic warranty of Three years or 36,000 miles. Nowadays, you may syndication one of these simple cars for any price ranging among $11,105 and $15,453 and if you in truth want to buy it a cost close to $12,000 is going to be sufficient to cover all the extra features you might like.

Infiniti Line Up Ready For 2007

Geof Ryan — Tue, 01 May 2012 14:59:33 +0000

Many humans dream of getting a fashion designer. They dream that supermodels will 1 day walk down the runway wearing their dresses, or blouses, or $200 denim jeans. I applaud their ambition. Having been involved in the apparel business since the age of 17, I have seen my portion of successes and failures. Here are a good deal of pointers that might aid you become 1 of the success stories.

#1: Define Your Customer

To be successful in the apparel business, it is critical to original define your target customer. Remember that you may not be all things to all people. Let us face it, a 50-year-old lady from rural Kansas in all likelihood will not buy a pair of skinny, tight-fitting jeans at $270 a pop. But a trendy 25-year-old professional woman living in Los Angeles just might! Defining the following characteristics of your client is crucial:

1. Where do they live? You probably ought to not undertake to trade bikinis in December to an individual living in Minneapolis. But you might want to market your bikinis to cities in Florida.

2. How old are they? Age is perhaps THE most essential factor in defining your market segment, as the skinny jeans example above demonstrates.

3. Where do they shop? Someone living in urban cities is much more likely to shop online. This info will determine your best course of action for marketing your products.

4. How much do they tend to spend when they shop for your peculiar product category? Price tolerance will determine how much you may charge for your product, and what merchandising stores will most likely carry your product.

#2: Check Out Your Competition

To guesstimate the chance of success of your new apparel line, look around to see if other persons are already successful with similar products! Say you want to trade leopard print ponchos. You might want to go to all the major merchants who sells goods at retail and see if any person is marketing ponchos. Is animal print “in” right now? And of course, you need to consider your specific market sector first. In sure market, being primary and dissimilar just might be your ticket to success. If you have not answered the questions in #1 above, answer them now. Read all the fashion magazines, as they tend to showcase productions that will be hot in the coming season. Some even report trends likely to be popular a year from now.

#3: Have A Marketing Plan

After you have specified your customer, figured out how much you may charge them for your products, you need a marketing plan that will get your name out there. Should you try submitting your productions to all the editors at major fashion magazines, or do you have the budget to place your productions into the hands of celebrities through an agency. Remember, just because your have a great product does not mean humans will mechanically recognise in regards to it. And the more buzz you generate for your product, the more likely stores will trade it.

#4: Know Your Start-up Cost

Apparel lines are EXPANSIVE to launch. So calculate your costs very carefully. You might want to work out of your house to start. But still, there are a lot of basic itemized costs you ought to consider:

1. Travel expanses necessary to publicize your line.

2. Do you want to hire professional sales reps? They could cost thousands of dollars.

3. Production related costs:

(i) How much does it cost to make prototypes?

(ii) What is the production costs? Small run habit apparel items are very costly. Consider substitute fabrics; limit the sizes you offer as it will reduce the number of SKUs (stock keeping units) you need to purchase. Do you want to make your product in high-cost markets such as Italy, or low cost markets such as India and China?

#5: Financing

You have a plan to market your new apparel line; you recognise how much it will cost you; now you need to know how to finance your venture. Possible roots for money:

1. Your savings

2. Your friends and family

3. Mortgaging your current sum totals such as your house

4. Finding outside investors

5. Borrowing from the bank (SBA loans are available for enterprisers in a heap of cases)

#6: Know Your Launch Date

In the apparel business, seasons play a indispensable percentage in determining your possible launch date. Apparel buyers buy their items at VERY specific time of the year at major industry events. You need to calculate backwards based on these event dates to determine when you need to have your prototypes ready for showing. You likewise need to determine what season your product is suitable for. Is it Fall? Is it Spring?

#7: Write Down Your Plan

Like starting any other business, after you have come up with a plan, writing it down increments your prospects of success. Your plan will keep you focused, and provide you with the huge picture as well as the details you need to consider. And if you are attempting to secure financing, a business plan is not only crucial, but perfectly necessary!

Above are the necessary steps you need to take if you are severe with regards to launching a successful apparel line. Remember, persistent determination is key! If you believe you have a great idea, pursue it. But be exhaustive with your research; be meticulous with your planning. I wish you the best of luck! Please make sure to check my other articles in regards to specific details on each of the above points. You might likewise want to check out my web web sites for further and added information.

How To Buy A Second Hand Car

Eric Weeks — Tue, 01 May 2012 14:59:33 +0000

Respraying your car means you are prepared to devote a heap of time and cash to finish this project. There is no reason why you can’t do this yourself, but you are going to need galore guidelines. Unless of course you are already a professional car painter.

First of all make up your mind to receive that you are not going to get the same professional looking occupation by using spray paints from a can. That’s not to say you can’t use them and get decent results. Just don’t raise your expected values to high. Respraying your car will take numerous getting used to.

First Step:

Do all of your sanding of the rough spots, and filling of the holes. There is no point in doing this after you have cleaned the car you will just be defeating the intent of washing the car in the initial place.

Second step:

You ought to commence with a clean car. If you don’t then your final paint finish will be a mess. Every bit of debris that you left on the car will be evident after the respraying.

Hint: If your car is wet and you shine a light on it you will without doubt or question see any imperfections that you didn’t catch in the firstborn or second step

Third Step

Now you have to mask off all of the areas where you do not want paint. If you aren’t actually diligent in this step you could end up being genuinely sorry that you didn’t. It would be a shame to have a beauteous paint finish, but half the paint is on the windows or chrome.

Fourth Step

Practice a little bit with your spray. There is a bit of a technique to it. Remember we said that respraying your car does take a great deal of time. Practice on a piece of cardboard. That way you are not as likely to get squirts or blobs of paint. Keep the spray moving continuously, and in very light coats. Several light coats of paint are far superior to two thick ones, that will look in truth uneven.

Fifth Step

Allow the coats of paint to arid at least one hour in between. Then utilize the finishing coat. Again this ought to be employed just like the paint. A flowing motion with just a very light coating.

By taking your time to do the occupation right and following these respraying instructions you will have to end up with a very adequate for the purpose finished project. If you try and take short cuts then this is where your difficultnesses will start.

Make sure you use good quality instrumentation and products. Take your time, because when you commence to rush a stage then that’s where faults take place. Remember to use the proper safety measures such as the right protective gear.

Ideally it helps to be capable to respray your car on a warm sunny day, as it helps to set or bake the paint on, giving it a nicer finish.

So do not forget before you start, do your exploration on the how to’s and have all your instrumentation and furnishes at hand, and you are ready to go for it.

Choosing Your New Car

Nazimabee Woozeer — Tue, 01 May 2012 14:59:33 +0000

There are so a heap of free police car auctions running today. Back in the old days, these automati auctions were unheard of by the public. Only the car dealers knew that these car auctions were taking place. Since then, times have changed, and today, the public may attend these car auctions as much as car dealers do. It is similar to getting your own car from a dealership. The only major divergence is that you won’t have to pay so much and you need to consider the condition of the used cars. These might give car dealerships a run for their cash but this means you get to pocket big savings on your end.

What Are Police Car Auctions?

Police car auctions differ somewhat from frequent automati auctions. In a police car auction, they are largely participated in by police agencies, region sheriffs as well as state and federal law enforcement agencies that have acquired lost, abandoned or impounded vehicles. The police section ends up with these employed cars as a result of arrests and forfeitures. The police department’s main goal in throwing the automati auction is to get rid of the vehicles while raising funds for their budget or any ordinary funds. Sometimes they just want to get back the cost of keeping the cars in storage. This is the main reason why you will get great bargains when you look for a car through these police automati auctions.

How to Choose the Car that You Want

Before you attend these police car auctions, you have to be sure when it comes to what you want. It would be best if you exploration the type of car that you want as well as the ones provided on the list of the car auction. Check the popular price, how much they normally go for whenever they are sold at automati auctions. If you already have a car that you’re eyeing at the auction, do what you may to find out when it comes to the employed cars history. Check the VIN number and get a vehicle history report if possible so you’ll have an idea of what kind of issues and maintenance or harm the car has suffered allround it is life. Once the bidding day at the car auctions has arrived, make sure to fetch sufficient cash. There are times when these car auctions would not receive checks, so make sure you have sufficient to buy the car you want.

Salvage Cars For Sale

Justin Scott — Tue, 01 May 2012 14:59:33 +0000

Accident Damaged Cars are one of the most mutual type of salvage vehicles available on the open market. These accident damaged cars are normally vehicles that have been taken over by insurance companies for reasons of not having to remunerate automati body companies from repairing harm that would cost more than the vehicle itself. The insurance companies would rather pay the proprietor the value of the vehicle that may be substantially less than having the vehicle repaired.

Once the car has been taken by the insurance company it is commonly priced out to junk or salvage dealers who tend to either strip the cars and trade the elements or if the car is not damaged to far resale it to the public. Once the accident damaged car for sale is sold it still has a long way to go before it is capable to be driven on the open road. When sold these vehicles are deemed un-drivable by motor vehicle associations. The vehicles need to go through the procedure of being repaired and brought back up to standards that each country deems necessary.

Now the repairs are done and you feel that the repairs are all that you need. Well, the vehicle is still not ready for the open road. Meaning, you still will not be capable to register the vehicle just yet. Now, you need to have the car inspected. You don’t want to drive around a car that is unsafe. I recognise that I would not. The inspection will have to be done by an authorized inspection station of the state. This inspection station will tell you if the repairs are up to par. If the repairs are not then they will commend what repairs are still necessitated and which are not. If no repairs are not necessitated then they will give you passing paper work that you take with you to a registration station. If their are still troubles that have to be taken care of either the inspection station will take care of it or you will need to take it back to the place were you had the original work done. Once finished go back and have a final inspection done. Now you are ready for registration.

Accident damaged cars for sale are great deals but you genuinely need to recognise the routine when bringing these cars back to life.

The Need To Know Facts About Auto Service Contract

Brooks Van Norman — Tue, 01 May 2012 14:59:32 +0000

If you need an online automati fix manual that may support you incisively fix your problem, the internet has an unbelievable amount of car care information. What you won’t find however, is a Chiltons or a Haynes automati fix manual, because they’re copyrighted material. You don’t need them anyway, because there are a lot of good car repair web internet sites with person pages or articles that may solve your specific problem.

In fact, you’ll find articles on all kinds of car fix and vehicle maintenance topics, such as

auto body repairs
automatic transmission replacement
bleeding brakes
car audio systems fix
changing oil
finding the causes for a bearing failure
how to install a substitute ignition system
how to upgrade an exhaust system
troubleshooting car stalling
troubleshooting car starting problems

and much more.

Here is a good place to search for vehicle repair manuals: Go to the search internetlocation at 10w40.com and type in the problem you want to solve – and the likelihood of finding the instructions you need is high. On this website you may also post your problem on an counsel and discussion board, and get your problem solved closely without any delay by an expert in this repair field or by an usual person who has experienced your problem and solved it already or might know where to go to get the answer you need. And it doesn’t cost you a cent.

There are numerous other good web sites where you may get an online automati fix manual that will fit your needs. Go to Google.com and type in [the problem you want an answer to]+repair manuals, and you must find a large total of valuable vehicle fix resources that might solve your problem.

A Look At Some Of The Newer Lines Of Collectible Cars

Matthew Pothen — Tue, 01 May 2012 14:59:28 +0000

So you think you want to give motocross a go, huh? Great idea, motocross is a fun, healthful (and at times painful!) sport that proceeds to grow in popularity all over the world.

In this article I’ll guide you through a good deal of do’s and don’ts to help you get organised and on the get started line for your very initial race.

Choosing A Bike

If you’re just starting out in the sport then there’s no need for you to have the latest and greatest bike. Apart from the fact that initially you won’t be competent to ride a brand new motocross bike to it is full potential anyway, there’s also the contemplation that in the event you determine the sport is not for you then you’ll have rather an pricey toy sitting in your garage that you have no use for.

Be realistic in regards to resolving whether a bike would suit you, it may be difficult to determine on a model when you haven’t got a whole lot of riding experience but undertake to find something that is more user friendly ie. littler engine capacity and preferably unmodified so that the bike is posing no difficulty to ride.

Look for a bike that seems well maintained, if you don’t have much mechanical noesis then see if you may enlist the aid of a friend who has galore experience with bikes to come with you when you go to look at a potential purchase. Check for apparent oil leaks, worn wheel bearings, any indications that the bike has done a lot of work and may not have been well maintained.

The end of your local race season and likewise new model changeover time may be a good time to go bike hunting, racers will be updating for next season with newer bikes so there must be a great deal around for sale. Check your local classifieds and bike dealers, internet based motorbike sales web sites are a outstanding place to look as well.

Riding Gear

The same rule regarding not requiring the latest and greatest applies to riding gear as well, the only item I genuinely would stress that you buy new is your helmet. In that case, spend as much as you may afford on a helmet, your head is one of your most precious bits!

The rest of your gear may be purchased secondhand, most motocross clubs have a newsletter that will have a classifieds division retail riding gear and respective bits and pieces as well as secondhand bikes, again check your local classifieds and the standard places like Ebay etc.

Secondhand gear is a genuinely good idea for kids, even if they determine they love racing bikes they grow that quick that you’ll find yourself perpetually getting your wallet out to upgrade their gear.

After getting a helmet the order of priority would in all likelihood be goggles, boots, knee guards, gloves, chest/elbow protectors then riding pants and a jersey.

Joining A Club And Practise Riding

OK, you’re all kitted out and you’ve found the motocross bike of your dreams (or at least one you may afford!), now you need to go riding. Find the local motocross club in your area and join up, they’ll be capable to tell you when practise ride days are and also other necessary selective information like how to go regarding getting a race licence and some other technical details that you need to look into before you race.

When you’re practising riding, build up your selfconfidence gradually. Spend time mastering the very fundamentals of riding and then work your way up to riding at speed and tackling galore of the more difficult obstacles on the track.

Watch experienced riders, take detect of how they ride sections of the track that may be causing you trouble. The most necessary thing is to take your time, yes you need to push yourself a little to improve but if you are sentiment uncomfortable with the way you’re riding and you have a decent crash it may take rather a while before you get your selfconfidence back. This likewise applies to the pushy parents I see yelling at their kids, if they’re not having fun what’s the point of them doing it?

Absorb as much info in regards to riding proficiencies as you may and then utilize them yourself when you’re out practising. In no time you’ll find yourself bettering and growing more convinced and comfortable. As fun as motocross is, it still may be a dangerous sport so be careful.

Your First Race

Right, your technique is razor sharp and you’re sentiment beauteous fast, it’s time to put it all to the test. Club meetings are a outstanding way to begin off racing, they’re low pressure and pretty casual and there are normally a great deal of club members who will do what they may to make introductory time racers feel welcome.

Get to the meeting nice and early, sign up and have a look around. If it’s at your home track then you will recognise the layout pretty well from all those practise laps. Attend the pre-race riders briefing and get ready for practise. Practise shouldn’t be a race, take your time and have a good look at the track and then put on a heap of pace and do a couple of laps at a speed close to what you would race at.

Once the race program has commenced, wander up and have a look at how the starts are run,

take detect of the routine so you will recognise what to suppose when your race is up. Keep an eye on the race order and get up to the start out line with a great deal of time to spare before your race. Here in Australia

the most mutual ways to determine who starts from which gate is done by a random draw, commonly a numbered peg out of a bucket.

Choose which gate you want to start out from and then get into position, put your bike in gear when the 30 second board is up, load the bike up versus the front brake (a technique where you employ the front brake and partially release the clutch until the bike is pushing versus the brake) when the 5 second board is up and when the gate drops you’re away!

Motocross racing is a outstanding sport but it may be rather daunting when you original start, just do not forget to go at your own pace initially and build your selfconfidence and above all have fun!

How To Save Gas And Save Money With A Few Simple Checks

Andrew Stratton — Tue, 01 May 2012 14:59:28 +0000

If your fuel injected Jeep is running rough like it has a miss on one cylinder, the disturb may be a bad fuel injector. Fuel injection is great when everything is working in the right way but once in a while disturb shooting the scheme may be like shooting in the dark. You can’t just remove the air filter and look inside like you may with a carburetor.

I have been working with a 1989 Jeep Cherokee six cylinder recently. The truck did not run when it came to me and I did not recognise it is history.

One I got it running, it had a distinct miss of a dead cylinder. I firstborn checked to make sure it was getting spark to all the plugs. I did this initial by using my in line spark tester. This tool flashes when the coil sends fire to the plug. All six were flashing. I then pulled the spark plugs out one at a time and visually inspected them. They all looked fine and all looked the same giving me no clue which one was the disturb cylinder.

On older engines, you could merely remove the plug wires one at a time to see which one did not make any divergence in the way the engine runs. However, I have found that you can’t do that on progressed electronic ignition systems as the power in the spark plug wire will give you a very uncomfortable zap if you try to remove it while the engine is running. So I don’t use that method on modern engines.

Next I checked the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. The pressure was within specifications so I moved on to testing person injectors.

To check the injectors, I employed a mechanic’s stethoscope. I placed the tip of the stethoscope on each injector body and listened at idle. On the injectors that worked correctly, there was a very distinct ticking sound. On the injector that was giving trouble, there was no ticking sound. I moved the stethoscope back and forth amid injectors a few times to get a clear effigy of the sound that it was supposed to make when it was working.

Before removing the fuel rail to modify the injector, I tested the electrical signal to the injector. I made a simple test lamp using a parking light socket and bulb and plugged it into the wiring harness. Since the light blinked, I knew the injector was getting power and ought to be stuck or bad. You may likewise buy a noid light that will plug into the harness, but for a quick check you may make a simple test lamp like I did.

To test the fuel injector firing coil you may use an ohm meter. Simply disconnect the wiring harness form the injector and place the probes all over the two contacts of the injector. An intact coil will read around 15 ohms. However, as seen on this Jeep, an intact coil does not mean the injector works.

Once you have located the injector giving trouble you will have to remove the fuel rail to replace it. See my other articles for how to replace an injector or fix a leaking injector.