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Prior to installing any manual boost controller, it is crucial to have already added a high flowing exhaust and an aftermarket air intake/ air filter. This will assure the car is competent to breath, and will grant the turbo to spool easier. It is of the utmost importance to have installed an aftermarket boost gauge. Most stock boost gauges are not accurate, even at stock boost levels, and lose further accuracy once stock boost is increased. Without an aftermarket boost gauge you risk harm to the engine from overboosting. How It Works: The wastegate actuator determines your stock boost levels. The boost controller interrupts the pressure line that runs into the wastegate actuator, permitting you to increase boost over stock levels. Step 1: Find your wastegate actuator which is commonly attached to the turbo, unless you are using an external wastegate. The wastegate actuator will have a vacuum line port that runs to a boost source. The boost source is ordinarily either the turbo’s compressor housing, the intercooler pipes, or the intake manifold. This vacuum line is where the manual boost controller will be installed. If there is a T fitting in the vacuum line amidst the boost source and the wastegate actuator, it will have a distinguished vacuum line that runs to the boost control solenoid. If you have the T fitting, remove the line that runs to the solenoid, but leave the solenoid plugged in. The barb on the boost controller that connects to the wastegate actuator will have a little hole drilled into it. It is primary to leave this hole open, and never switch the wastegate barb and the boost barb. Boost controllers specifically come with approximately 3 feet of vacuum line that you may cut into 2 pieces of desired lengths. The basi piece will connect from the boost barb on the controller to your boost source. The second piece will connect from the wastegate barb on the controller to the wastegate vacuum port. Tip: if you have difficultness sliding the vacuum lines onto the barbs, use a little bit of oil to lube the barbs. Block off any open boost roots with vacuum caps and use cable ties to secure all vacuum line connections. We commend using Premium Fuel with all turbo cars, in particular once you have increased your stock boost. Step 2: Now that the boost controller is installed, it’s time to test the car. We commend leaving the adjustment knob precisely where it was when you received and installed your MBC when you get started testing. Turning the adjustment knob clockwise increments boost, turning the adjustment knob counterclockwise decreases boost. This step is very essential to keep an eye on your boost gauge to make sure you do not overboost and cause any harm to your motor. Drive your car in an isolated area where you will be capable to stop and go various times without intervening with traffic. Slowly press the gas and watch your boost gauge climb. If the boost gauge does not hit your target, increase the boost. If the boost begins to exceed your target, decrease the boost. Repeat the steps as necessary. It specifically takes amid 5 to 10 adjustments to get the boost precisely on your target. We commend starting by adjusting the boost knob in 1/2 turn increments, and as you get close to your target you may need to make littler adjustments. Never adjust more than 1/2 a turn at a time. Each car has a greatest or most complete or best possible safe boost level, depending on upgrades to the vehicle and the characteristics of the fuel system, specifically how much fuel your pump and injectors may provide. It is important to exploration and know what the greatest or most complete or best possible boost level your specific car may safely run. This guide serves as a basic starting point for manual boost controller installation. If you have an external wastegate or twin turbo vehicle, the installation technique may vary slightly. |
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