What does BPU(TM) stand for? (BPU(TM) is a trademark of SupraStore.com)

Basic Performance Upgrades. These modifications are: A full length three inch down-pipe (with or with-out high flow cats), 3″ (75mm) or larger cat-back exhaust system, raised boost (18psi), and the required boost cut eliminator (GReddy BCC) necessitated to achieve that boost without activating the factory fuel cut-off at 14-15psi. These are the modifications that have proven to provide the best HP-to-$$$ ratio.

What does the + mean when someone says BPU(TM)+? And what is APU?

That stands for any further and added power constructing modifications other than the basic BPU(TM) modifications. One “+” refers to Adj. Cam Gears and under-drive pulleys, the second “+” refers to a Fuel controller, ECU upgrade, etc. For instance, a Supra with the BPU(TM) modifications, plus a front-mount intercooler, would be called BPU(TM)+. If you added cam gears to that, it would be BPU(TM)++, and so on. The “BPU(TM)” term is used until you have an upgraded turbo(s). Then it is referred to as APU, modern performance upgrades. This identification gorgeous much covers each modification that may be performed.

What are the firstborn engine modifications I must perform?

I commend starting with raising the boost of the stock turbos to roughly 18psi. This will require a quality boost gauge and a boost cut eliminator (GReddy BCC). You will achieve 15 or so PSI with the stock Down Pipe in place. This will provide an addition of approximately 30rwhp. After those modifications are completed, it would be a logical next step to install the Down Pipe and Cat-Back Exhaust at the same time. You will now be at full BPU(TM).

What do all the respective “Free Mods” do?

There are a lot of dissimilar “free mods” for the Supra TT. I will cover just a few of them here. The ones I will cover fall into three categories, boost control, EGR disabling, and TTC or True Twin Conversion.

Three of the boost control mods are: Bleeder-T Mod, Clamp Mod, and the VSV Bypass Mod. Each of these modifications raise boost levels without the use of a boost controller. But you have to keep a close eye on your boost gauge, and make sure they are not permitting the turbos to boost too high (18psi is a safe level).

The next mods, are the unfeigned twin conversion mods (or TTC). This modification disables the Sequential twin turbo operation, and causes the turbos to run constantly in parallel (both on at the same time). This is supposed to concede for somewhat better mid-range power (before the secondary turbo would normally come online) and allows for a smoother power band, without the abrupt boost increase caused by the transition from necessary to secondary operation. However, this does noticeably decrease low-end power, and increments exhaust noise levels, and consequently may not be desirable on the street. Two types of the TTC mod are, the traditionalisti TTC mod which includes 2 methods, wiring the actuators, or installing a one way valve, and the Electronic TTC mod (ETTC).

The last mod I will talk about is the EGR mod. This disables the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system, which is meant for emissions, and therefore, this modification is for off-road use only. This mod is supposed to prevent the super heating of the number 5 and 6 cylinders, which may cause burnt valves.

How much power will my car make at BPU(TM)?

It varies from car-to-car, and the conditions as well as tuning. Most BPU(TM)-only Supra Twin Turbos, dyno among 370 and 410 horsepower at the rear wheels. This is commonly achieved with moderate temperatures, a reset ECU (to erase anything bad the ECU may have learned), and often a little bit of high-octane un-leaded race fuel. On the street, power will be reduced, in particular in poor weather, but at least 90 percent of the power must be retained.

What kind of 1/4 mile ETs and trap speeds will have to I run at BPU(TM)-only?

It varies WIDELY depending on driver skill. As well as track conditions, elevation above sea level, ambient temperatures, humidity, and pre-race preparation. But most fall amid 12.3 to 12.9 ets with 112 to 119mph trap speeds on street tires. Times may drop well into the 11s with drag radials, a good driver, and good conditions, as well as proper pre-race preparation.

What is a BPU(TM)’d Supra TT’s top speed?

Speeds in the mid-high 180mph range ought to be achievable. Once the speed-limiter is disabled, by pulling the “TRAC” fuse of course.

Will the life of my Engine and Drivetrain be adversely affected with the BPU(TM) mods?

Yes, but not by a significant amount. If the car is maintained properly, and the car is treated with numerous respect for the components, you will have to maintain much of the power train’s life. Which giving careful consideration to the fact that the Supra is by far one of the most dependable and lasting sports cars, it will last longer than most well maintained STOCK sports cars. The only Drivetrain constituents that will see a significantly shortened life will be the stock clutch. It will more than likely not last much longer than 8-10k miles once at BPU(TM). This peculiarly holds unfeigned if the car is making repeated high speed runs using 5th and 6th gear at wide open throttle. If your stock clutch has high mileage on it, or is already starting to slip, you will need to plan on a new high-performance clutch. Also the stock turbos will be subject to a more or less shortened life span (how short will depend on how you drive and maintain the car, as well as how much boost you will run)

What’s the reliability of a 600hp Supra Turbo?

Chassis, electrical, and suspension parts will have to see little effect on reliability on street driven Supras. The stock 2JZ-GTE engine must hold up beauteous well to this power level. Just how long depends on maintenance, and how hard you drive it, and how often. But specifically Supras may go for years at this power level. The transmission reliability will depend on whether it’s an Automatic or Manual. A stock automatic will not hold this much power, a built transmission will be required, and it’s reliability will depend on it’s design and construction. The 6spd Manual must hold up just fine, as well as the rear differential and axles.

The only real reliability worries at these low power levels would surround the actual modifications you perform. Excluding installation short-comings, the elements utilized, even very high quality ones, may fall short of factory element reliability, as the built in compromises that subsist in everything, would lean more towards the side of uttermost performance, than of extreme reliability (Keep in mind we are talking when it comes to a Toyota here, whose reliabilty standards are particularly high) This may include fuel scheme components, turbo components, and particularly electronic wizardry. Basically a set-up that is either VERY well conceived, or utilizes OE elements as much as possible, without over burdening them, would posses *near* stock reliability. And tuning of the components, and element selection, and matching, would play a HUGE role in this.

What are the power limits of the respective factory parts (Differential, Transmission, Motor, etc.)?

There have actually not been sufficient failures to actually pin point a limit for the respective power-train components. The motor could fail at factory power levels if it was running dangerously lean. But when well tuned, the motors internals (Pistons, Rods, Crank, Head Gasket etc) are dependable to 700rwhp. But of course at these power levels, if the engine is not set-up and tuned properly, it is in a literal sense a bomb waiting to go off, nonetheless this would be just as true with a built motor. Some owners have pushed their stock internals to the limit and have well exceeded 800rwhp, and even neared 900rwhp. I still don’t perceive how such an over built motor made it past the bean counters at Toyota Corporate.

The 6-speed Getrag is ridiculously strong for an OE transmission. Its limit’s will be affected principally by driving technique, such as launching, and whether or not power shifting is used. Even driven hard, the Getrag must hold up reasonably well with 700RWHP. If you treat it with a lot of respect, it will have to be capable to handle around 800RWHP or more, even though great care and respect will need to be practiced at those levels.

Differential, axle, CV Joint, and drive shaft failures are a VERY rare occurrence. So I don’t have much info on their failure limits. On street tires, it would be almost totally unlikely to break any of these parts at ANY power level. The tires would spun before they would put the driveline under that kind of strain. The tires act sort of like a circuit breaker. If you run drag slicks, this does not hold true of course, yet they have proven themselves to be 10 and even 9 second capable.

Will drivability, interior noise levels, and low-end power be adversely affected with the BPU(TM) mods?

Drivability is not adversely affected. Interior noise level depends on the exhaust system you choose. Some will make it far louder; a lot of will genuinely make it quieter. But most are just a little bit louder than stock. But the added dBs are likewise combined with a MUCH sweeter exhaust note, so it’s unquestionably worth it. And the interior of the Supra is beauteous quiet anyway, so on the highway, it will be VERY livable. As far as low-end power goes, the down-pipe will primarily decrease Turbo Lag. So low-end power and response is much bettered over stock.

Will emissions be adversely affected by the BPU(TM) mods?

As long as a high-flow cat is used, emissions will have to not be effected, and you will have to still pass visual inspection. If you run without catalytic converters, you are doing so at your own risk, and you would not pass visual or emissions testing.

Will fuel mileage be adversely affected by the BPU(TM) mods?

If driven calmly, as in light throttle, mileage must not be significantly affected. Mileage will primarily decrease for the duration of however, if you drive “vigorously”, more power equals more burned fuel I am afraid.

Should I install an “Intake” (Open Element Filter)?

This is a bit of a yes and no answer. The stock filter assemblage is a flow restriction, and an open element intake would increase potential flow. However, it will likewise draw in more heated engine compartment air, which may hurt performance. My counsel is to either modify the stock filter box, or install a cool air induction box, like the Max Air. An added bonus of the open factor filters, is that they grant you to effortlessly listen the indispensable turbo and by-pass valve.

What in regards to the stock intercooler?

The stock intercooler does a decent occupation up till when it comes to 17psi on the stock turbos, after that you would in all likelihood detect a substantial gain, exceptionally in warmer temperatures, with a nice front mount intercooler. However, keep in mind it will block a lot of of the airflow to the radiator, as well as decreasing response slightly.

Should I replace the factory rubber Intercooler hoses with aftermarket metal hoses?

It wouldn’t hurt. But it won’t support a lot either. At the most you may somewhat increase throttle response, but at least it will look nicer.

What when it comes to the fuel system, are the stock injectors and fuel pump huge sufficient for BPU(TM)?

Yes, the stock fuel system is very safe and authenti to 450RWHP, though I would commend a fuel pulsation damper bypass. Anything over that, and I would highly commend having the car dyno’d, and using a wide-band O2 sensor (not a cheap A/F gauge connected to the stock O2) to check the fuel proportionality at your high boost setting. 11.5:1 would be a safe fuel ratio.

What are the stock injectors ranked at?

540cc/min

Would the Supra gain from a fuel controller?

BPU(TM)’d Supras run a little on the rich side as far as fuel ratios go. This hurts power. What it does do is provide a safety margin that makes engine harm through detonation unlikely. If you get a fuel controller, and tune it the right way (on a dyno, with an exact EGT gauge, and a high band O2 (The Stock O2 sensors are not accurate), then you ought to be competent to gain a noticeable amount of power. One of the most standard electronic fuel controllers is the A’PEXi S-AFC. The Fields SFC is good too.

What will have to I use to increase my boost level, an Electronic Boost Controller, or a Manual BC?

Using an EBC is the safest way to raise boost, it will prevent spiking and over-boosting. But it genuinely comes down to your budget. If you may afford an EBC, get one. If you can’t, go with a MBC. And always keep an eye on that boost gauge. And whatsoever you are using to control boost, do not forget to not get carried away, I don’t commend going steadily over 18psi.

What is the best Electronic Boost Controller?

There genuinely is no BEST. Although the A’PEXi AVC-R is a nice unit, it provides much more control over boost than other EBCs, but it is also more complex to install, and tune. The new Blitz unit is also nice. Most of the big makers make decent units. Just stay clear from fuzzy-logic equipped models if you still have the sequential stock turbos, they will become “confused” by the unnatural conduct of the sequential system.

When installing my EBC, do I connect it to both of the Turbo’s Wastegates?

The Primary Turbo is the only one with a wastegate. When in full twin turbo mode, the boost of both Turbos is regulated by the indispensable turbo’s wastegate. So, only connect it to the Primary’s.

Some persons say I need to replace my ECU with a reprogrammed one, rather of just using a boost controller. Do I?

Reprogrammed ECUs for the Supra TT are VERY $$$. They are in the $1200 range. And they have not been proven to provide a significant increase in performance or safety on BPU(TM) level cars. Their merit shows itself on cars with upgraded Turbo(s). Just be sure you buy your ECU, or have it reprogrammed by a reputable shop that knows what they are doing. And have it tailored to your queer car (Driving habits, and Mods). And I would likewise commend taking a look at the AEM Programmable system.

What is a safe boost level to run at BPU(TM)?

The popular consensus is 17-18psi. Some persons have taken it higher, but I don’t commend it if you don’t have the cash for a turbo replacement/upgrade.

Which Down-Pipe is recommended?

The RMM (or Rod Millen Motorsports) Cat-less Downpipe is the most normally used. However a great deal of other brands exist. Some down-pipes, such as the Random Technology DP, feature an emissions legal high-flow catalytic converter.

Will a high-flow cat hurt performance?

It will have galore effect on power output, but not a lot. Its precise effect on HP is not clear, but it probably costs a few hp at the most, perchance 5-15hp at BPU(TM) power levels.

What is a Down-Pipe?

It is the division of the exhaust system that connects the outlet of the Turbocharger’s Turbine division to the “Cat-Back” exhaust system. The Downpipe is also where the two catalytic converters are located, as well as the O2 sensor (or sensors in OBD-II cars).

I have an OBD2 car. Can I still install a Down-Pipe?

Yes. But unless the DP has a Catalyst and a second emplacement for an O2 sensor, you will trip your check engine light, unless you get one of those O2 “black boxes”.

Which Exhausts are the loudest?

The Tanabe Racing Medallion, and HKS Hiper Titanium seem to be the two loudest systems.

Which Exhausts are the quietest?

The Tanabe Hyper Medallion, the discontinued Tanabe G-Power Medallion and the GReddy (SP) Street Performance seem to be the quietest. At anything less than full throttle, they are no louder than stock. But at full throttle they seem to “wake up” a bit.

What are numerous commended exhaust systems?

It depends on your personal preferences. Below I will break down some of my recommendations based on sure compoundings of preferences.

Subtle Styling / Very Low Cost:

-Random Technology (75mm, full stainless steel)

Subtle Styling / Low Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-GReddy Street Performance (80mm)

-Tanabe Super Hyper Medallion (80mm, full stainless steel, 50-state legal)

Subtle Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-ATR (75mm, full stainless steel)

Tasteful Styling / Low-Moderate Sound Level / Low Cost:

-HKS Dragger II (85mm)

Tasteful Styling / Low-Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-GReddy Power Extreme (80-94mm)

-HKS Super Dragger (95mm)

Tasteful Appearance / Moderate Sound Level / High Cost / Super Light:

-Veilside Tear Drop Titanium (90mm, full titanium)

Tasteful-Wild Styling / Low Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-TRD 2nd gen.

Wild Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Low Cost:

-A’PEXi N1

-HKS Hiper (75mm)

Wild Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-A’PEXi GT Spec (95mm, full stainless steel)

-Blitz NUR Spec (80mm, full stainless steel)

-HKS Hiper Carbon/Titanium (75mm, CF wrapped muffler, titanium tip)

Wild Styling / High Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-Tanabe Racing Medallion (80mm, 50 state legal)

Wild Styling / High Sound Level / High Cost / High Flow:

-HKS Hiper Titanium (104mm, titanium muffler)

What is the most inexpensive route to replacing the DP and Cat-Back?

Have a habit performance exhaust shop invent a finish 3″ exhaust system (Turbo-to-Tip). It ought to cost well less that $400. And then you may use the muffler and exhaust tip of your choice.

Which Fuel Cut Eliminator is recommended?

The GReddy BCC (Boost Cut Controller) is highly recommended.

What does the Fuel Cut Eliminator do?

The factory ECU is programmed to activate a fuel cut if the manifold pressure surpasses 14-15psi. It does this as a safety measure to prevent what the ECU sees as over boosting. The Fuel Cut Eliminator efficaciously eliminates, or at least raises the cut to a higher pressure. A reprogrammed ECU may also eliminate this function.

Which boost gauge is recommended?

Any high quality boost gauge will work well. Accuracy is the crucial feature to look for. Autometer gauges are a good value. The Japanese gauges, A’PEXi, GReddy, HKS, etc., have more features, but at a much higher price.

Where may the boost gauge be installed in the interior?

If you want to mount it in the dash, the two most general places are the Clock emplacement (which holds a 52mm gauge), and the Air Vent besides it (which holds a 60mm gauge). You may also use an A-Pillar gauge pod.

What is the stock boost pressure?

11-12psi

Are Cam Gears a good modification for the Supra TT?

Yes, they have been shown to provide a 5-15rwhp gain on a BPU(TM)’d car. But to extract their potential, you must have them tuned, by a welleducated tuner, on a dyno. And most of the power gains will be seen on the exhaust side. I likewise commend buying cam gears which feature 5-bolts.

Are Under Drive Pulley(s) a good modification for the Supra TT?

Most of the crank-shaft under-drive pulleys require the remotion of the factory torsional damper.

This is from MKIV.com :”this is NOT an external (harmonic) balancer, as the crankshaft is totally balanced, rather it dampens both the axial twisting couples invented by the firing pulses, and the radial bending moment from the accessory drive belt.”

Basically this device provides crutial isolation amidst the engine driven accessories, and the crankshaft. However, remotion of this may provide a 10-15rwhp gain, but at a cost for long term use.

Do I need to upgrade the ignition when upgrading to BPU(TM)?

The stock ignition system is VERY competent of providing sufficient fire for a BPU(TM)’d car. The stock ignition system uses 6 huge coils, one for each cylinder. So the scheme is capable of supporting VERY impressive HP levels. You may need to change to a colder range plug with a tighter gap (see below).

What regarding the spark plugs, which are commended at BPU(TM) or higher level?

Basically you want similar plugs as stock, but a cooler heat range and a littler gap. The stock plugs are NGK BKR6EP-11 (2978) and are platinum tipped and have a .044 (1.1mm) gap. The idealisti NGK substitute for a modified Supra would be the BKR7E (6097). It is one range cooler (the ’7′), is non-platinum tipped (the lack of the ‘p’) and has a littler .0315 gap (lack of the ‘-11′). This plug is also called the NGK 6097 and they are somewhat inexpensive. Platinum tipped plugs are not desired for high power applications, Iridium plugs are more preferred. Unfortunately their doesn’t seem to be a BKR8E which might be better for high-HP Supras.

Another good plug to try is the Denso Iridium IK22 or IK24. These plugs may last longer than the above noted NGKs, but are also 6 times as expensive. The stock substitute plug would be the IK20, the IK22 is one step cooler, and the IK24 is two steps cooler than stock. The IK22 would be good for ~400rwhp to ~600rwhp. The IK24 would in all likelihood be a good choice above that. Two other plugs commonly used are the NGK 3330 (BCPR7ES) which differ much more from the specifications of the stock plugs than NGK 6097. Also the Rapid Fire #5 used to be very popular, but are more expensive, don’t last as long, and have fallin out of favor. Both of those plugs have been known to cause slight stumbling at idle. Plugs on Supras do not live long, commonly around 5,000-10,000 miles. So I commend replacing them with each other oil change.

What is the HKS VPC and GCC?

It is an electronic device, which electronically and physically removes the highly restrictive mass airflow sensor from the intake tract. VPC stands for Vein Pressure Converter. The HKS GCC is a device that allows further fine-tuning of the VPC.

Do I need an after-market Blow off Valve?

It is not perfectly required, but it is a good idea. The factory by-pass valve is prone to failure, and an aftermarket BOV is in all probability a wise investment for preventing turbo detrimental compressor surge. And it sounds cool too. However, it ought to be noted that if you still have the factory mass-air flow sensor, a blow-off valve, which is vented to the atmosphere, may cause stumbling among shifts.

Can I run Nitrous Oxide on the Supra TT, even if I am already at BPU(TM) power levels?

Yes. Most persons run 50-75 shot wet manifold systems. If you want to run a higher shot than this, you might want to consider a well-designed direct port system. I have seen as much as a 200-shot employed on one of these systems, and an upgraded fuel system would be a must.

450hp just isn’t enough, what may I do?

Ah the possiblenesses Basically you are only fixed by your imagination, and your wallet. You know what they say, speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?

The real power lies in Single and Twin turbo upgrades, and the choices are limitless. You may either build a mild motor that puts out 450 RWHP all day long with instant boost response, or a 1000+ RWHP monster.

Unfortunately, things begin getting more difficult after simple BPU(TM) modifications. Modification becomes more than “bolt on Downpipe, gain 50hp”. Things like tuning, constituents selection, and corresponding compoundings of constituents become much more important. However, this is the case with ANY high HP car. Actually, even at in particular high power levels, the Supra TT is still requiring little effort to extract power from than almost any other performance car. But it will have to be held in mind, that it wouldn’t be as simple as the BPU(TM) bolt-ons.

If you just want something that will toast that pesky Viper GTS. Then focus on a mild single turbo upgrade (T04S04, T60-1, SP57-SP61). Along with this, you will have to install a front mount intercooler, a fuel controller, fuel pulsation damper bypass and EGT gauge. This is assuming you have done all the BPU(TM) mods, plus BOV, EBC, Cam Gears. With tuning, and a few odds and ends, you will have to be competent to pull 450-500 RWHP (490-580 crank HP) numbers while on a stock fuel system (assuming it is in outstanding condition). This would be a total investment of approximately $6,700-$11,500 in engine/electronic constituents (also includes the proper gauges). If you already have the BPU(TM) mods or FMIC, etc., you will spend less than this. The divergence in prices reflects the cost of higher end parts and addition of a HKS VPC to replace the restrictive stock MAF.

The next level would require a totally upgraded fuel system, and performance cams would be recommended, as well as further electronics (programmable engine management such as the AEM, or VPC/GCC/ECU combo, etc.). This would concede you to run much more spectacular turbos and injectors. You may make it past the 700RWHP range without necessitating to replace the internals of the motor with more inviolable components, even at these power levels, if in the right manner tuned and maintained you will have to retain a reasonable amount of reliability while still on the stock internals, as a great deal of people have overshadowed the 800RWHP level while still running stock bottom ends in their Supras. If you choose to go in front and build up the bottom end, then the skies are the limit as far as power goes. Just make sure to have part selection, installation, and tuning done by capable and experienced persons. Although this will have to hold true at ANY level of modification.

Should I install a Turbo Timer?

Absolutely. Unless you don’t mind sitting in your car while it idles down each single time you need to turn the car off. A Turbo timer keeps the engine running for a preset time once you turn off the ignition. So you may remove your keys, and lock up the car and not have to worry with regards to it, it will shut off on it’s own. This is necessary for the life of the turbos. If the turbos are not given time to cool down, it may overheat the oil and cause coking which will block oil flow to the turbos and harm bearings and cook seals.

How much is the Supra’s power output affected by changes in ambient temperatures?

Very noticeably, just as with most turbo cars, the Supra Twin Turbo may be very temperature sensitive. Especially with the stock turbos and intercooler. On a BPU(TM) car, I would not be amazed to see a 10 percent reduction amid 50-60deg temperatures, and 90deg plus temperatures

Will the stock clutch hold the power levels of a BPU(TM) car?

It depends on the condition and wear on the stock clutch. If it is in good condition, yes, it will hold the power, beauteous well in fact, altho you may experience clutch slip while at full boost in high gears such as 5th and 6th. If you drive vigorously, meaning you run at high boost frequently, then the life of the stocker will be GREATLY shortened. Be amazed if you see an extra 10,000 miles after BPU(TM).

Can I resurface my flywheel when replacing the clutch?

It is not recommended. Buy a new Toyota Flywheel.

Can I install a lightweight flywheel?

Yes, but be conscious that they may fabricate a lot of noise at idle, and may transmit more vibrations and shock to the costly Getrag transmission.

Why is pulling the TRAC fuse beneficial over just turning it off with the switch on the center console?

Just pushing the “Trac Off” button only partially disables the Trac system. It disables the Trac throttle body and TRAC function through the ABS System (on 93.5-96 only), but not the Trac system’s ignition timing retard function. Unplugging the Trac fuse does away with both functions, as well as the 155mph speed limiter, which works through the trac system. The fuse may be found in the main fuse box on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. It must be noted that removing the fuse will cause the TRAC light to stay on, but you’ll get applied to it.

Will the TRAC system improve the cars performance?

NO. The Trac scheme was calibrated to improve traction in slippery conditions. It was not calibrated with performance in mind. When the Trac scheme senses a loss of traction, it comes on hard, cutting power drastically; this will do not one thing but injure performance. I also would not rely on the Trac system for providing stability at high speeds, if you were to loose control, it would be too slow and clumsy, and would more than likely hamper your attempts to regain control.

How may I remove the factory 155mph speed limiter?

Remove the fuse for the Trac system. The speed limiter works through the Trac throttle body.

What is the Supra TT’s top speed with the Trac fuse removed?

There is a heap of debate on this subject. There are rumors that 180 may be achieved. But by going with the numbers, 168-172mph in stock form seems possible.

What is the Supra TT’s greatest or most complete or best possible theoretical top speed? Can it exceed 200mph with sufficient power?

Lets find out.

The Supra TT with the 6-speed has a stock engine redline of 6800rpm, and a 6th gear ratio of .79:1, with a rear axle ratio of 3.13:1. Now we multiply our 6th gear proportionality times our rear axle ratio, and we find out our final gear proportionality is 2.472:1. Now we divide 6800rpm by our total gear reduction of 2.472:1 and we find out our rear axles, and accordingly wheels are spinning at 2751rpm at 6800 engine rpms.

Now we need to calculate our tire circumference. The rear tires division width it 255mm, and the sidewall’s aspect ratio is .40, so our sidewalls are 102mm. Now, to convert this to inches, we divide this by 25.4, which equal’s 4.015 inches. Now multiply this by two, since we have two sidewalls making up the total diameter, and add the wheel diameter of 17″, and we see a total diameter of 25.031 inches. Now to find out our circumference, we multiply that number times pi (3.14), and we find out the circumference is 78.59 inches, now divide that by 12 to convert to feet. And we get 6.549 feet total circumference.

Now multiply our tire’s revolving speed, by the tire’s outside circumference, and we find that the tire is covering 18,016 feet per minute, divide that by the 5280 feet in a mile, and we find we are covering 3.412 miles per minute, now multiply that by the 60 minutes in an hour, and we find we are traveling 204.7miles per hour @ 6800rpm in 6th gear. If the engines redline is increased to 7500rpm, which it often is, because of a higher flowing turbo. Then our greatest or most complete or best possible speed would be 225.8mph, given sufficient power of course.

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You Can Install A Performance Exhaust System Photo

You Can Install A Performance Exhaust System Picture

You Can Install A Performance Exhaust System Photo

You Can Install A Performance Exhaust System Picture

You Can Install A Performance Exhaust System Photo

You Can Install A Performance Exhaust System Picture

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We all recognise that Social Security (SS) is engaged in a struggle and the cash there will in the long run disappear. Prior to 1935 there was no personal SS. All that existed were people saving their cash in their bank/under the mattress. In 1935 SS was created. Remember that this was the same time amount of time of the Great Depression. Keep in mind the life expectancy back then was like 62 years old. Now it is 76. Baby Boomers make up a big share of the population. Baby Boomers are retiring everyday. You want galore hard facts? Well according to Research Corporation Study: The New Landscape of IRA Rollover © 2005 BISYS Retirement Services.

o The firstborn of the baby boomers reached age 59.5 in July 2005

o 4 million more will reach age 59.5 each year

o 24 million people will reach age 65 by 2010

o 55% plan on to work after “retirement”

Now on the flip let’s say there was no problem with SS. Have you ever talked to an individual who gets SS checks? They don’t get a lot of money. It is sad sometimes. I am not attempting to offend anyone, but the majority of the older persons you see at Wal-Mart greeting you and marking your receipt didn’t have a “nest egg” to rely on when they “retired”. The topic I will talk about will prevent that from ever happening to you and I.

1974 congress produced IRA (Individual Retirement Account) to supplement Social Security. We recognise these are programs to help shelter cash away for tax benefits. Typically people go after the established investments. We always listen when it comes to stocks, bonds and CD’s. Yes all investments have risks, but the thing in regards to these investments is that you may not affect the outcome of the business/your return. You are a spectator, watching the game. Also, you can’t use leverage (an example of using leveraged will be discussed later). Also, with stocks if any little blip in market occurs, like oil, war, scandal, etc. your value could go down. Real estate does go up and down but in general you don’t lose all of your cash in worst case scenarios. Real estate appreciation has kept pace or exceeded inflation. It is a cycle. When it goes down, the value does not go down instantaneously (like Enron).

Self Directed IRA (SDI) an overview. Now I am not bashing stocks, I have them, if you talk to any financial planner, they will tell you to always be diversified in your investments. This is what SDI does for you. Ideally you ought to have SDI, stocks, bonds etc.

SDI has been a well kept secret. Why? I think it is because of ignorance, and I also the folks on Wall Street don’t benefit. A broker at an investment company will not tell a person in regards to it, because they can’t make cash off of the dealing (let alone having them perceive how it works). The last reason is because there are “professionals” who don’t have a clear understanding on it is use.

To get a SDI, you would either have to go through an Administrator, or a Custodian.

What is an Administrator? Banks, brokerage firms (like Charles Schwab) and insured credit unions.

What Is A Custodian?

There are very few self-directed IRA/401k custodians in the United States. In order to be a custodian for self-directed products, the custodian is known as a “passive custodian.” This merely means that they are obligated by law to provide only custodial and administrative services for the qualified plan. They may provide NO investment advice. This tremendously reduces the fees related with established investments because you, the investor, make all of the investment decisions. They are likewise FDIC insured.

What is the role of the custodian

o Holds your IRA assets

o Performs all IRA transactions

o Keeps all IRA records

o Provides all IRS required reports

o Keeps IRA plan in compliance

o Provides access online access

There are only three things your SDI can’t invest in and they are

o Collectibles/antiques

o Life insurance

o Stock of a sub-chapter “S” corporation (these are companies that are swopped publicly on the stock market)

As long as the dealing is for investment purposes and you have not produced a “prohibited transaction” (will talk about later) the list of investments are endless.

The beginning of a long list of real estate you may buy with your SDI

o Foreclosures, Options, Pre-construction, raw land, apartments, offices, strip malls, mobile homes, public storage, any type of investment property

o Trust deeds/mortgage notes

o Privately held C-Corp stock, LLC membership

.

The rules on prohibited transactions

o Cant buy from or trade to a disqualified/prohibited person

o Cant make personal use of property

o Cant use SDI as collateral for personal loan

Personal use prohibitions

You can’t personally use a vacation home. Even if you rent it out for 354 days and spend one day in it, this is illegal. You can’t carry out maintenance on the property. You may hire a maintenance crew using the cash coming out of your SDI, but you can’t physically work on the property. You likewise can’t hunt on raw land, dock boat at a SDI owned boat slip. There was a person, who worked with Pensco, that purchased a specific area of a water fishing spot in Alaska. The person, couldn’t fish there, so she leased out the area to other fishermen and received profit.

More on disqualified persons

You can’t buy from a person providing services to the investment. It has to be a clean slate. It can’t be business among employer and employee. If you have your SDI in an LLC and you want to buy property, you will not be capable to if you own more than 50% of the company. You can’t buy/sell to a fellow member of your family including spouse, ancestor, lineal descendant and any spouse of a lineal descendant. Meaning, not you parents, children, your son in law etc. But, you may buy/sell to a sibling. There can’t be a sale/exchange/leasing of any property or supplying a loan amid a plan and a disqualified person. Lastly, you can’t buy something you already own (SDI can’t be applied for funds to remunerate off your mortgage. There ought to be no sensed direct or indirect personal gain to the account owner).

Basic rules

o Can’t implicate the account holder, his/her spouse a lineal ascendant/descendant of family nor the spouses of your children and you can’t use SDI funds to pay off a personal mortgage

o Can’t make personal use of property (must be for investment purposes only)

o Can’t personally guarantee the loan for your SDI nor use the SDI as collateral for a personal loan

o Can’t work for or take income from an SDI investment

o Can’t have your spouse, nor your family members (your siblings are ok) own the property prior to it is buy by your plan

o Can’t have your business lease or be located in or on any portion of the property while it’s in your plan. You may receive any property as a distribution from your plan as a retirement benefit

What dealings are prohibited?

The following are specified as prohibited dealings when they implicate the account holder:

o Borrowing cash from the SDI

o Selling property to the SDI

o Receiving unreasonable compensation for managing pluses for the SDI

o Using the SDI as security for a loan

o Buying property for personal use with the SDI

o Collectibles/antiques

o Life insurance

o Stock of a sub-chapter “S” corporation

50% rule

If a disqualified person(s) owns 50% or more collectively of an entity, then the SDI can’t engage in a dealing with the entity because the company is considered a disqualified person.

Using IRA as collateral

You can’t use your SDI as collateral for a loan. If you will get a loan it will have to be an unsecured loan. If you default in paying the loan, the lender can’t go get the cash out of your IRA, nor may they go after personal assets.

Any type of prohibitions have penalties, if you violate them. SDI is no different. Here are the aftermaths if you do not comply:

o Loss of IRA status resulting from prohibited transaction

o Loss of tax immune status

o Income tax on account value

o Penalties and interest

o Possible audit to determine extent of prohibited transactions

If you genuinely want more selective information on the rules check out:

o IRS code 4975

o UDFI/UBTI: IRS code 598

o Department of Labor (DOL) 2004-8

Tax court cases

o Swanson 1997

o Rollins 2004

o Rousey v. Jacoway 2005

Ways to invest by using your SDI

o Property buy all cash

o Property buy using a loan (NOTE this has not always been the case where you may get a loan from a bank for your SDI. These past couple of years a few establishments are supplying loans to SDI. I have those contacts, contact me and I will explore choices for you)

o As a fellow member of an LLC or “C” Corp.

o As a lender on a trust deed (mortgage note)

o As a collaborator in a joint venture

o As a Tenants in Common T.I.C. fellow member (if any of the terms I use are unfamiliar to you, look them up online)

o Make a private loan to an entity or person (hard cash loans)

To give you ideas of what investors have purchased through Pensco:

o Largest US massage school

o Cypress tree farm in Costa Rica

o Fish farm in Salinas, CA

o Interests in movies, plays

o Condo in Lithuania

o House on a private lake in Colorado

o Thoroughbred race horse

o Nudist resort in Virgin Islands

o Over 35 U.S. banks

o Napa Valley B & B

o Biotech company

Pensco’s top capitalist success story is going to amaze you on the potential your SDI may have. In March of 1999, four men opened up SDI accounts. They each invested on an individual basis and through their IRA’s in a company they were starting. They brought in other unrelated investors. That company is purchased out a couple of times. The company goes public and sells out in June 2002. Well how much did they make? CEO made $34 million (12,000% return). Chief scientist made $22 million. CFO make $17 million. Marketing VP makes $8 million (4,000 return) What is better than that? They all invested $2,000 through their IRA’s except the CEO who invested $1,800. Pensco explained the features of the 1 year Roth IRA and they all chose to invest with a Roth IRA. If the CEO gets an intermediate return of 12% until he is entitled to withdraw tax-free at 59.5 he will have $1 billion, $100 million tax free! Yeah that is right…show me the money!

Let’s compare

Real Estate Investing – with SDI

o Tax deferred growth on income and cap gains

o No 1031 requirement!

o No annual tax reporting

Taxable investments non SDI

o Tax deferred cap gains (if 1031)

o Tax on net earnings

o Annual reporting required

How it works

You have an account with Pensco (you may roll over your current IRA account to them) you tell them what you want to invest in, they do all of the paper work, make out the check and now it is in your trust account. All cash that is necessitated for expenditures and all profits go into/taken out from the trust account. The title of the property in your IRA will be kept with Pensco Trust as follows: “Pensco Trust Custodian, FBO (client name) IRA, (Acct #). All documents will be reviewed and initiated by the you (the IRA owner) and signed by Pensco Trust.

Introducing SDI on steroids in the neck…Solo 401(k)

A solo (k) is a combined salary deferral and net income sharing retirement plan for sole proprietors, little business owners with no workers (other than part timers working less than 1,000 hours per year or their spouses).

Roth contributions may increase tax free $15,000 to %20,500 per year or 30k to 41k per married couple (for 2007). Unlike a Roth IRA, there are no income limitations placed on the contributor. You could be a zillionaire and it would not matter! Currently a single person making over 110k can’t bestow to their Roth married couple is 160k.

Who may gain from Solo (401)k

o Real estate brokers

o Consultants

o Contractors

o Lawyers

o Electricians

o Any sole practitioner

o Even if you work full time for an employer and have a business on the side where you are a sole proprietor you may establish a solo K

The divergence is…

o You may borrow up to 50k (or up to 50% of balance, if less) from your Solo 401 k

o You may invest in life insurance

o You may invest in “S” corporations

o You may keep away from UDFI and capital gains UBIT (UDFI and UBIT will be discussed later) when using leverage to buy real estate

o A part of your savings may grow tax free for life

o You may put away more cash quicker with larger contributions

o No income cap on contributing to the Roth component

o Above 50 year old employee has the option to put up to $20,500 per year away, to grow tax free

Why appealing

o Allows the sole owner funds to grow tax free

o While Roth IRAs grant similar contributions they are fixed to $4,000 in 2007 ($5,000 if over 50), and to those earning annual gross income of less that $110,000 for that year

o You may increase tax free growth probabilities by likewise contributing to a Roth IRA ($4,000/$5,000) in addition to the Solo (k) (15,500/$25,000), if you are entitled (check with Pensco for details)

o A married couple in business together may put up to $51,000 ($25,500 each ) per year of after tax cash into retirement accounts that will grow tax free for their lifetimes and those of their heirs (including $5,000 Roth IRA contributions) and another $59,000 ($29,500) each that will grow tax deferred. That is a total of $110,000 as a couple of which $51,000 will grow tax free (assumes each is over 50 and earns less than $100,000

o And there is no income limit on contributions

o May roll pre existent plans and IRAs into it

Types of purchases of SDI

All cash

Your SDI buys one property all cash. No debt, LLC, and partners. When you do this your SDI needs to have sufficient funds to cover buy price, all closing costs, custodial fees and ongoing property expenses. If you run out, you may loan your personal cash to your SDI (with interest and principal).

Multiple SDI – All cash T.I.C.

SDI may belong to anybody – even prohibited people. All SDI go on contract, and on title, as “tenants in common.” Ownership percentage ought to be identified and all costs and proceeds prorated in the right way according to these percentages.

Multiple Parties – IRAs & People all cash T.I.C.

Same as multiple IRAs, as long as there is no loan (as an all cash deal) it does not matter who the SDI belongs to, or who the people are. All names ought to be on contract and title for distinctive percentages.

All cash

Buy/sell, with/without, friends/family is by far the easiest and most mutual transaction. When this happens all income comes back to SDI, so having a1031 interchange is not required to defer taxes. The cash in your trust account is likewise employed to compensate any disbursements incurred. Real estate investment related disbursements are salaried out of the SDI.

Getting a loan to buy

In the past there were NO banks lending to SDI. Only until not so long ago a few banks in the nation offer this service. The loan that is offered is a non-recourse loan. This is outstanding news, because now investors could use leverage.

When you get a loan for your SDI you:

o Can’t guarantee the loan personally.

o Can’t co-invest with your IRA.

o Pay the tax on any income or capital gains derived from leverage.

o Increase the returns and growth of your SDI two to three times.

What is a “non recourse loan?”

o You are not personally liable for repayment of the loan. In the event of a default/foreclosure the lender may only recover the property and your equity.

o Typically requires 30-35% down payment. If there is low cash flow or the condition of the property is bad then they may require a more spectacular down payment.

Non recourse loan process

o After setting up the SDI, it will distinctively close in 30 days.

o Cash out refinance: funds are passed around back into the SDI.

THERE IS NO PRE PAYMENT FOR A NON-RECOURSE LOAN!

Property Eligibility

o Single family residential

o Condo’s (100% complete, 33% or more sold, and HOA turned over by developer)

o Duplexes

o 4-plexes

o Multi-family (5 or more)

o Commercial property: including retail, warehouses, and office buildings

Ineligible properties include:

o Residential with big acreage

o Raw land

o Farms

o Manufactured homes

o Hotels, condo-hotels

o Co-ops, timeshares

o Senior or assisted living facilities

o Non-franchise restaurants

o Entertainment properties

o Mini-storeage

Requirements for debt financing must be verified for buy along with reserves (10-20% loan amount).

Documentation required for loan approval:

1. Completed loan application

2. Most recent asset statement verifying IRA sum totals for buy and reserves.

3. Purchase sales contract

4. Acceptable real estate appraisal for the property to be financed. The appraisal will have to come from lender.

5. Copy of drivers license

6. Property insurance must read the IRA/LLC as the insured

Income necessaries for homes

o The furnished property will have to generate sufficient net operating income to exceed debt service payments by:10%single family (less then 10% or negative cash flow is satisfactory with sufficient reserves on SFR). For 2-4 unit properties it is 10-15%

o IRA pluses will have to be verified for buy along with reserves

How the closing routine works:

1. Title company prepares closing documents.

2. SDI proprietor initials for approval.

3. Originals sent to Pensco for execution by the tile company or broker.

4. Pensco signs, notarizes and returns package. They during one night and wire remainder of funds for closing.

5. Title company forwards recorded concede deed to Pensco.

6. Through your trust, you now own the property.

Another way to invest using IRA

This is a true story from a Pensco client. One capitalist wanted to buy a property in San Francisco. They buyer didn’t have all of the cash for a down payment. So, he neared his friend and asked with regards to him if he was mesmerized in earning a sure percentage return on his IRA. He agreed. So, the buyer took his share and combined it along with his friends SDI, to buy the property. His friends SDI issued him a second on the property. This produced a “win” circumstance for everyone. The buyer gets the property. His friend gets a outstanding return on his IRA (that is secured by real estate) the sales agent wins because the deal closed. The proprietor of the property is happy, because they sold the property. The bank, is happy because they are making a return by giving a loan. All of this is possible because the SDI was used.

There was another person, who employed his SDI to buy pre construction property. In Las Vegas, there was a developer who was forming a community. The capitalist neared the developer and solved a problem for them. Apparently there were a heap of fall outs with buyers. The investor, said (paraphrasing) “I will buy any homes that fall out of escrow for a discount.”

If you would like to read upon an capitalist who applied their SDI, look up: Time June 14th 2005. Investor employed $195,000 to invest in property on Marco Island FL. Sold resulted in a $500,000 earnings going directly to IRA

Rental property purchases

Question:

I want to buy a rental property for $100,000 may I use:

o A. $30,000 of my IRA funds

o B. $65,000 of my personal funds

o C. $5,000 loan from my brother to do this?

o D. All of the above

o Answer: D

In the begging of this E-book, I conveyed that using SDI has been kept a secret. One of the reasons is because of misinformation from “professionals” is from CPA’s. Some CPA’s say not to use an IRA to invest in real estate because:

o You will lose tax gains e.g. derogation (not quite)

o Using SDI “destroys” tax deferred compound growth in IRA (wrong)

o You have to compensate usual income tax versus capital gains tax at the end of the line (true just like any other IRA investment)

Some CPA view points do not take into contemplation the following:

o They do not address need for diversification in the retirement portfolio to hedge versus other assets

o Broadly implies that even if you know that you may get better results laying out capital in real estate through your SDI you shouldn’t do it

o It is IRRELEVANT if real estate out performs other IRA investments

o IGNORES the facts that 44% of net worth in US is in real estate

o Does not recognize that after tax yield is the crucial goal of the investor

Unrelated Business Taxable Income (UBTI)

If your SDI gives rise to income from action not “substantially related” to the immune status UBTI comes into play. The intent of UBTI was to alleviate unfair contest by immune organizations with taxable enterprises. Basically when you conduct business and it is not passive income, you come all over UBTI. Further explanation; if your SDI is going to open up a restaurant, you are going to have frequent income. The IRS feels that is reasonable that you recompense tax on the cash you make everyday. Because it is not reasonable for you to open up a restaurant and for someone else to open up a restaurant down the street, but you don’t recompense tax. If it is “ordinary income” UBTI applies. If it is passive income UBTI does not apply, such as rent, interest and capital gain.

Unrelated Debt Financed Income (UDFI)

Income generated by action that had debt financing. Tax is applied to that part of gain/income that is debt financed. Most “passive” investments income such as rents from a property are normally excluded from taxes, but such investment income is going to get taxed if derived from debt financed property (UDFI). Basically, if you buy a property for 5 million. You have your SDI, put up 2.5 million and you get a loan for the other 2.5 million. Well the gains you get from the borrowed 2.5 million from the bank will get taxed (UDFI). You will not get taxed on the percentage that comes out of your SDI.

How long does it take a man to fall in love? That’s a question that most of us women are dying to know the answer to. If you’ve been dating a guy for a good deal of time and he has yet to utter those three small, but very important, words it may be a bit disheartening. As women, we want to recognise that he’s sentiment all the same things as we are, but it doesn’t always take place at incisively the same time. When it comes to understanding the pace at which a man falls in love, you have to keep just a few primary tips in mind.

Answering the question of how long does it take a man to fall in love may seem out of the question since not all men are precisely the same. That’s very unfeigned but most men open their hearts up to a woman at when it comes to the same speed as other men. A few things will have to be in place before a man feels a strong connection to someone. One of those things is that he must feel as though she’s genuinely fascinated in him as a person. You have to show him that you care regarding him and his well being. Dote on him, praise him and let him recognise how much you love spending time with him. Don’t gush in regards to him constantly but ascertain he understands that you genuinely be grateful for his presence in your life. He wants to feel particular and he wants to recognise that no one else may replace him.

You may speed the routine along a good deal of if you appeal to a man’s heart directly. We all recognise the old saying that the way to a man’s heart is through his stomach but that’s not altogether true. The way to a man’s heart is through wonderment and support. Every man wants to be with a woman who loves him incisively the way he is. He’s more apt to fall in love with you sooner if you make him feel as even though he’s your one and only hero. Don’t compare him to any other man and don’t criticize the things he does or tell him that you wish he did things differently. Just celebrate who he is and make him see that you love each moment you are spending with him. This will support him feel better regarding himself which in turn will make him want to be around you more and more.

This truck bed liner review compares do it yourself bed liner kits with professional spray-on liners. In each category various brands are equated and contrasted.

Professional Spray-on Bed Liners.

Advantages.

• Protects bed from harm by moisture and rust.
• Thick, lasting coatings protect bed from minor impacts.
• Unharmed by gas, diesel fuel, a great deal of chemicals.
• Many include UV inhibitors to protect versus fading from sun exposure.
• Repairable.
• Fast application, only takes two to three hours.
• Guaranteed.
• Some are available in various colors.

Disadvantages.

• Costs up to $700.

Bed Liner in a Kit (Do it Yourself).

Advantages.

• Costs $100 to $200.
• Can do person elements or pieces.
• Lets you do it yourself (for us hard-headed, cheap individualists).
• Looks almost just like spray-on professional job.
• Can be sprayed, rolled or brushed on.

Disadvantages.

• Thinner coat more without apparent effort damaged.
• May peel if surface poorly prepared.
• More tendency to fade in color.
• Preparation takes a lot of time and elbow grease.
• Potential for a mess if you get coating where you don’t want it.
• Available in only a few colors.

Spray-on Truck Bed Liner Review of Sources.

Rhino Linings.

Over 2 million installations. In business since 1988. Local franchisees worldwide. Guaranteed protection. Installation takes only with regards to 2 hours. Now has three dissimilar types of coatings and dissimilar textures. Offers colors. Thick rubber-like tough finish up to in regards to 1/4 inch thick. The standard.

Line-X.

Similar to Rhino for cost and application procedure. Line-X in general has a finer texture. Can spray varying thicknesses. Many dealers. Like Rhino may be repaired readily. Guaranteed.

Speedliner.

Since 1995 has offered a competitory product. A urethane material sprayed with conventional spray equipment. Thick coating said to be more inviolable than the contest and with better UV light resistance. Many dealers.

Many Others.

There are a lot of other challengers with similar productions and processes. Some were started by former laborers of these companies or others.

Bed Liner In A Kit Truck Bed Liner Review.

Herculiner.

Seems to be the most widely available. Offers a kit that includes all the furnishes for finishing a bed. Coating is polyurethane that may be sprayed, brushed or rolled. Said to be 5 times as thick as the competition. Comes in red, gray and black. Dries in with regards to 4 hours. Easily repaired. Like all the other productions of this type, surface preparation is critical. Poor surface preparation is the most likely cause for failure. Kit is regarding $100.

Plasti-kote.

A section of Varathane. Brush, roll or spray. Texture is non-skid rubber granules. Recommended for introductory factory paint surfaces. Warning that it may lift or wrinkle non-original paint finishes. I would guess that any brand might do that. Comes not only in a gallon may but likewise in an aerosol may exceptionally utile for touch-up. About $60 per gallon of finish.

Magnaliner.

Kit available containing all furnishes (except acetone solvent for cleaning) for an 8 foot truck bed. Includes 1 1/4 gallons of finish. Also includes a particular primer designed for roller application. Said to be developed from UV stable polyurethanes to help finish stay black and bright and protest graying. Costs when it comes to $200 for kit.

Whether you choose a professional spray-on liner or a do it yourself roll-on kit, you may get a truck bed liner that protects your truck and makes it look great.

You may use a bed liner kit to utilise an beautiful finish to your truck bed. A bed liner in a may will save you hundreds of dollars over getting a in a professional manner used finish. If you choose to employ your own bed liner, here are assorted tips and ideas.

A bed liner kit comprises of the actual coating material plus the preparation materials and the application tools. The most widely available kit is by Herculiner. Herculiner advertises that their coating is 5 times as thick as other do it yourself bed liner coatings. Another kit is by Magnaliner.

Most people will utilize bed liner paint with a roller or a brush, but a lot of of these materials may be sprayed too. See the manufacturer for nozzle recommendations. But really, I don’t think you may tell the divergence in aspect of the roll on coating from a spray on job.

You may put together your own kit. Read regarding the materials you need at our article.

Why a Bed Liner Kit?

If I wanted a bed liner on a new or very late model truck, I would get an estimate from a professional installer like Rhino or Line-X. Here’s why. These companies control the design and formulating of their coating material and the material seems to be more lasting than what you may utilise yourself. Plus they guarantee their work. So if there is a problem, they’ll repair it. You must remember, these coatings are permanent. You want this occupation done right.

Also, the professional coatings go on thicker than most bed liner in a may products. The thicker coating is more difficult to penetrate. There’s less chance of scratching down to the metal.

But, a professional application may cost you $500 – $700. That may be justified on a new truck but surely not on an old one.

Also, the advantages of the pro spray on bed liner may not apply to your situation. The durability of the liner you install yourself may be good sufficient for you. If you aren’t going to be throwing concrete blocks in your truck, your bed liner kit may be perfective for you.

One good reason to install a bed liner is to improve the aspect of a truck bed that has harm from abuse or rust. The bed liner kit is perfective for this.

The biggest reason to use a bed liner kit is to save money. My sons just installed a bed liner using a bed liner kit in our 1980 Plymouth Arrow Pickup. The total cost for this occupation was when it comes to $150. This bed was not banged up a lot but it was scratched and scraped over most of the surface. It looked pretty sad.

The boys sanded the surfaces acutely then applied a chemical rust converter to the rusty spots. Then they used primer to the bare spots. Then came two coats of bed liner paint and it looks great. It genuinely looks like a professional job. You can’t tell it’s a bed liner in a kit. It looks like a spray on job.

For an older truck for sure, the bed liner kit is a great option. And even for a lot of newer trucks, I would choose a bed liner kit.

Many persons would like to listen to the music that is on their iPhone while in their car, but become frustrated because it’s often not simple. If you are very lucky, your car already came with an iPhone or iPod kit that includes a dock connector that hooks up directly to your phone. Then, the music will play through your car speakers. In a heap of cases, you control the music with the iPhone itself, and in other cases your car will provide an substitute interface which is meant to be safer to use while driving. Most cars do not have this kind of iPhone integration. It’s worth asking at your car merchant if this option is possible for your car. In most cases, this will be rather expensive. Another option is the auxiliary input on your car stereo: Many stereos have the capacity to intake an audio signal from another device such as your iPhone. This will in all probability mean a mutual and inexpensive mini RCA cord that connects to the headphone jack of your iPhone and the auxiliary input port on the car stereo.

If neither of these choices are possible, you may investigate a radio transmitter. Essentially this is a little device that will take the audio output from your iPhone and transmit it over a sure radio frequency. Then, you may tune your car radio to that queer station and listen to your music! This sounds like a crazy approach but it in truth works fine. The downsides are that you need to use an extra device and that the sound quality may not be great.

I’m sure you are well conscious that the Christmas gift buying goods has to get done gorgeous soon but possibly you are stuck for introductory ideas. If you have to find a present for a 9 year old boy then this article might be capable to point you in the right direction. It will present three cool Christmas gift ideas for 9 year old boys or boys around that age.

The initial gift idea is an old favorite. It’s LEGO. But not just the simple block sets that surely give hope or courage to ability to create but may likewise be a bit dull for kids of around 9 years of age. The item staged here is the City Public Transport set.

This is far more progressed from the plain old blocks, as it is a set with a theme. And that theme, of course, is a public transport system. In the set you get a train or tram system with station. You likewise get a filling station for road vehicles and a bus. There are a few other cars, like a street sweeping vehicle, a flash yellow sports car and, believe it or not, a bicycle. There are also a few LEGO characters to drive and ride on these transport systems.

Kids will love to play with the set on it is own or they may comprise it into their existent LEGO sets. It is a somewhat new release as it only came out in August this year so it’s bound to be a toy to get any kids that are crazy on Lego and want to add to their collection.

Another toy that is sure to appeal to boys is the AT AT Walker model. The AT AT walker (All Terrain Armored Transport) is part of the Star Wars movies. Most kids today may be up on the Clone Wars and the latest characters from this time in the Star Wars legend but this is a way to get them into the older movies.

The AT AT is from the second Star Wars movie (chronologically speaking) and is such a fantastic looking machine that most fans of the movies would love to have such a toy. The toy is a well elaborated model of the real machines.

You may open the cockpit to see all the dashboard decal and there is space for character, like the driver and commander to steer the walker. You may likewise open the body to store stormtroopers and gear for the approaching battle. As part of the toy, you also get an imperial bike speeder which may be stored in the body.

The final toy that is sure to suit a 9 year old boy (or girl for that matter) is the Razor E200 scooter. This is an motor driven deck style scooter. It looks a bit like a skateboard with a steering column. You may even get a likewise designed scooter without the motor which requires leg power to move it, but most kids already have something like this. They’d actually love one with a motor on it.

Truck-mounted snow blowers affix to the front of a pickup or sport utility vehicle. Drawing power from the vehicle engine, a truck-mounted snow blower may eat a path 7 feet wide and 3 feet tall, throwing the snow 40 feet in any non-backwards direction. With it is 2-cylinder, 4-cycle, 27-horsepower gas engine, a truck-mounted snow blower carries the same amount of power and strength of six full-size push units. It’s no wonder people have been using them religiously in mountainous and rural areas since 1980.

The snow blower manufacturer Hanson is credited for introductory introducing pickup truck-mounted snow blowers; Hanson proceeds to be the only manufacturer actively selling them. Based on a long tradition of tractor-mounted snow blowers, Hanson truck-mounted snow blowers are powerful, solid, and efficient.

If you’re thinking with regards to buying a truck-mounted snow blower, there are numerous things you ought to consider first.

A truck-mounted snow blower weighs 800 pounds. Your truck or SUV will have to weigh at least half a ton, preferably ¾ or a full ton, to aid it is weight.

Your vehicle will have to be a 4-wheel drive and have automatic transmission because at low speeds, operating a manual transmission and the snow blower simultaneously may be very difficult.

Truck-mounted snow blowers are compatible with most plow mounts, including Meyers, Western, Fisher, and other mutual brands. Before buying a truck-mounted snow blower, contact Hanson and tell them what kind of a plow mount you’re working with, just to be safe.

Truck-mounted snow blowers take their power from the vehicle engine. All the controls are wired into the truck cab, including the electric key start, choke, throttle, discharge chute rotation and deflection, and hydraulic snow blower lift. Imagine the power of having all these controls in the cab with you as you heroically clear all the snow from your neighborhood roads. They are likewise outstanding for little road contracting businesses.

Three number of things from which only one can be chosen to truck mounted snow blowers are:

Truck mounted snowplows: If you live in a more densely populated area, you don’t want to be launching tons of road snow onto your neighbors’ walkways, driveways, vehicles, and pets. It’s commonly better to get a plow, which merely pushes the snow off the road.

Tractor-mounted snow blowers: If you live in a rural area, a tractor-mounted unit is best. Chances are you have a lot of area to clear, so you’ll need the snow moving power of a tractor.

ATV-mounted snow blowers: The Snow Hogg (not to be confused with Snow Hog, a maker of snow tires) is a big snow blower that attaches to your all-terrain vehicle, making for one hungry-looking snow chomper. Smaller than a truck-mounted unit, but still more powerful than most push units, the Snow Hogg may clear a path 42″ wide and almost two feet deep, with a chute rotation range of 210. The Snow Hogg weighs closely 400 pounds, but thanks to a built-in suspension and traction system, the machine only puts with regards to 10 to 15 pounds of stress on your ATV frame.

What does BPU(TM) stand for? (BPU(TM) is a trademark of SupraStore.com)

Basic Performance Upgrades. These modifications are: A full length three inch down-pipe (with or with-out high flow cats), 3″ (75mm) or larger cat-back exhaust system, raised boost (18psi), and the required boost cut eliminator (GReddy BCC) necessitated to achieve that boost without activating the factory fuel cut-off at 14-15psi. These are the modifications that have proven to provide the best HP-to-$$$ ratio.

What does the + mean when someone says BPU(TM)+? And what is APU?

That stands for any further and added power constructing modifications other than the basic BPU(TM) modifications. One “+” refers to Adj. Cam Gears and under-drive pulleys, the second “+” refers to a Fuel controller, ECU upgrade, etc. For instance, a Supra with the BPU(TM) modifications, plus a front-mount intercooler, would be called BPU(TM)+. If you added cam gears to that, it would be BPU(TM)++, and so on. The “BPU(TM)” term is applied until you have an upgraded turbo(s). Then it is referred to as APU, progressed performance upgrades. This identification finelooking much covers each modification that may be performed.

What are the basi engine modifications I will have to perform?

I commend starting with raising the boost of the stock turbos to roughly 18psi. This will require a quality boost gauge and a boost cut eliminator (GReddy BCC). You will achieve 15 or so PSI with the stock Down Pipe in place. This will provide an addition of approximately 30rwhp. After those modifications are completed, it would be a logical next step to install the Down Pipe and Cat-Back Exhaust at the same time. You will now be at full BPU(TM).

What do all the respective “Free Mods” do?

There are a heap of dissimilar “free mods” for the Supra TT. I will cover just a few of them here. The ones I will cover fall into three categories, boost control, EGR disabling, and TTC or True Twin Conversion.

Three of the boost control mods are: Bleeder-T Mod, Clamp Mod, and the VSV Bypass Mod. Each of these modifications raise boost levels without the use of a boost controller. But you have to keep a close eye on your boost gauge, and make sure they are not permitting the turbos to boost too high (18psi is a safe level).

The next mods, are the unfeigned twin conversion mods (or TTC). This modification disables the Sequential twin turbo operation, and causes the turbos to run perpetually in parallel (both on at the same time). This is supposed to grant for somewhat better mid-range power (before the secondary turbo would commonly come online) and allows for a smoother power band, without the abrupt boost increase caused by the transition from necessary to secondary operation. However, this does noticeably decrease low-end power, and increments exhaust noise levels, and hence may not be desirable on the street. Two types of the TTC mod are, the established TTC mod which includes 2 methods, wiring the actuators, or installing a one way valve, and the Electronic TTC mod (ETTC).

The last mod I will talk about is the EGR mod. This disables the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system, which is meant for emissions, and therefore, this modification is for off-road use only. This mod is supposed to prevent the super heating of the number 5 and 6 cylinders, which may cause burnt valves.

How much power will my car make at BPU(TM)?

It varies from car-to-car, and the conditions as well as tuning. Most BPU(TM)-only Supra Twin Turbos, dyno amid 370 and 410 horsepower at the rear wheels. This is commonly achieved with moderate temperatures, a reset ECU (to erase anything bad the ECU may have learned), and oftentimes a little bit of high-octane un-leaded race fuel. On the street, power will be reduced, particularly in poor weather, but at least 90 percent of the power will have to be retained.

What kind of 1/4 mile ETs and trap speeds ought to I run at BPU(TM)-only?

It varies WIDELY depending on driver skill. As well as track conditions, elevation above sea level, ambient temperatures, humidity, and pre-race preparation. But most fall amid 12.3 to 12.9 ets with 112 to 119mph trap speeds on street tires. Times may drop well into the 11s with drag radials, a good driver, and good conditions, as well as proper pre-race preparation.

What is a BPU(TM)’d Supra TT’s top speed?

Speeds in the mid-high 180mph range will have to be achievable. Once the speed-limiter is disabled, by pulling the “TRAC” fuse of course.

Will the life of my Engine and Drivetrain be adversely affected with the BPU(TM) mods?

Yes, but not by a substantial amount. If the car is maintained properly, and the car is treated with some respect for the components, you must maintain much of the power train’s life. Which giving careful consideration to the fact that the Supra is by far one of the most authenti and lasting sports cars, it will last longer than most well maintained STOCK sports cars. The only Drivetrain constituents that will see a significantly shortened life will be the stock clutch. It will more than likely not last much longer than 8-10k miles once at BPU(TM). This peculiarly holds true if the car is making repeated high speed runs using 5th and 6th gear at wide open throttle. If your stock clutch has high mileage on it, or is already starting to slip, you will need to plan on a new high-performance clutch. Also the stock turbos will be subject to a more or less shortened life span (how short will depend on how you drive and maintain the car, as well as how much boost you will run)

What’s the reliability of a 600hp Supra Turbo?

Chassis, electrical, and suspension constituents will have to see little effect on reliability on street driven Supras. The stock 2JZ-GTE engine ought to hold up beauteous well to this power level. Just how long depends on maintenance, and how hard you drive it, and how often. But specifically Supras may go for years at this power level. The transmission reliability will depend on whether it’s an Automatic or Manual. A stock automatic will not hold this much power, a built transmission will be required, and it’s reliability will depend on it’s design and construction. The 6spd Manual ought to hold up just fine, as well as the rear differential and axles.

The only real reliability worries at these low power levels would surround the actual modifications you perform. Excluding installation short-comings, the constituents utilized, even very high quality ones, may fall short of factory factor reliability, as the built in compromises that subsist in everything, would lean more towards the side of extreme performance, than of extreme reliability (Keep in mind we are talking with regards to a Toyota here, whose reliabilty standards are specially high) This may include fuel system components, turbo components, and peculiarly electronic wizardry. Basically a set-up that is either VERY well conceived, or utilizes OE constituents as much as possible, without over burdening them, would posses *near* stock reliability. And tuning of the components, and element selection, and matching, would play a HUGE role in this.

What are the power limits of the respective factory parts (Differential, Transmission, Motor, etc.)?

There have actually not been sufficient failures to in truth pin point a limit for the respective power-train components. The motor could fail at factory power levels if it was running dangerously lean. But when well tuned, the motors internals (Pistons, Rods, Crank, Head Gasket etc) are authenti to 700rwhp. But of course at these power levels, if the engine is not set-up and tuned properly, it is in a literal sense a bomb waiting to go off, nevertheless this would be just as true with a built motor. Some owners have pushed their stock internals to the limit and have well exceeded 800rwhp, and even neared 900rwhp. I still don’t grasp how such an over built motor made it past the bean counters at Toyota Corporate.

The 6-speed Getrag is ridiculously strong for an OE transmission. Its limit’s will be affected mainly by driving technique, such as launching, and whether or not power shifting is used. Even driven hard, the Getrag ought to hold up reasonably well with 700RWHP. If you treat it with a lot of respect, it will have to be competent to handle around 800RWHP or more, though great care and respect will need to be practiced at those levels.

Differential, axle, CV Joint, and drive shaft failures are a VERY rare occurrence. So I don’t have much info on their failure limits. On street tires, it would be closely out of the question to break any of these constituents at ANY power level. The tires would spun before they would put the driveline under that kind of strain. The tires act sort of like a circuit breaker. If you run drag slicks, this does not hold true of course, yet they have proven themselves to be 10 and even 9 second capable.

Will drivability, interior noise levels, and low-end power be adversely affected with the BPU(TM) mods?

Drivability is not adversely affected. Interior noise level depends on the exhaust system you choose. Some will make it far louder; a heap of will actually make it quieter. But most are just a little bit louder than stock. But the added dBs are likewise combined with a MUCH sweeter exhaust note, so it’s unquestionably worth it. And the interior of the Supra is pretty quiet anyway, so on the highway, it will be VERY livable. As far as low-end power goes, the down-pipe will principally decrease Turbo Lag. So low-end power and response is much bettered over stock.

Will emissions be adversely affected by the BPU(TM) mods?

As long as a high-flow cat is used, emissions will have to not be effected, and you must still pass visual inspection. If you run without catalytic converters, you are doing so at your own risk, and you would not pass visual or emissions testing.

Will fuel mileage be adversely affected by the BPU(TM) mods?

If driven calmly, as in light throttle, mileage will have to not be significantly affected. Mileage will principally decrease for the duration of however, if you drive “vigorously”, more power equals more burned fuel I am afraid.

Should I install an “Intake” (Open Element Filter)?

This is a bit of a yes and no answer. The stock filter assemblage is a flow restriction, and an open factor intake would increase potential flow. However, it will likewise draw in more heated engine compartment air, which may hurt performance. My counsel is to either alter the stock filter box, or install a cool air induction box, like the Max Air. An added bonus of the open factor filters, is that they concede you to effortlessly listen the crucial turbo and by-pass valve.

What when it comes to the stock intercooler?

The stock intercooler does a decent occupation up till in regards to 17psi on the stock turbos, after that you would probably detect a substantial gain, specially in warmer temperatures, with a nice front mount intercooler. However, keep in mind it will block a good deal of of the airflow to the radiator, as well as decreasing response slightly.

Should I replace the factory rubber Intercooler hoses with aftermarket metal hoses?

It wouldn’t hurt. But it won’t help a lot either. At the most you may somewhat increase throttle response, but at least it will look nicer.

What with regards to the fuel system, are the stock injectors and fuel pump huge sufficient for BPU(TM)?

Yes, the stock fuel system is very safe and authenti to 450RWHP, though I would commend a fuel pulsation damper bypass. Anything over that, and I would highly commend having the car dyno’d, and using a wide-band O2 sensor (not a cheap A/F gauge connected to the stock O2) to check the fuel proportionality at your high boost setting. 11.5:1 would be a safe fuel ratio.

What are the stock injectors ranked at?

540cc/min

Would the Supra gain from a fuel controller?

BPU(TM)’d Supras run a little on the rich side as far as fuel ratios go. This hurts power. What it does do is provide a safety margin that makes engine harm through detonation unlikely. If you get a fuel controller, and tune it in the right manner (on a dyno, with an exact EGT gauge, and a high band O2 (The Stock O2 sensors are not accurate), then you will have to be competent to gain a noticeable amount of power. One of the most usual electronic fuel controllers is the A’PEXi S-AFC. The Fields SFC is good too.

What will have to I use to increase my boost level, an Electronic Boost Controller, or a Manual BC?

Using an EBC is the safest way to raise boost, it will prevent spiking and over-boosting. But it in truth comes down to your budget. If you may afford an EBC, get one. If you can’t, go with a MBC. And always keep an eye on that boost gauge. And whatsoever you are using to control boost, do not forget to not get carried away, I don’t commend going steadily over 18psi.

What is the best Electronic Boost Controller?

There in truth is no BEST. Although the A’PEXi AVC-R is a nice unit, it provides much more control over boost than other EBCs, but it is also more complex to install, and tune. The new Blitz unit is likewise nice. Most of the big manufacturers make decent units. Just stay clear from fuzzy-logic equipped models if you still have the sequential stock turbos, they will become “confused” by the unnatural conduct of the sequential system.

When installing my EBC, do I connect it to both of the Turbo’s Wastegates?

The Primary Turbo is the only one with a wastegate. When in full twin turbo mode, the boost of both Turbos is regulated by the crucial turbo’s wastegate. So, only connect it to the Primary’s.

Some persons say I need to replace my ECU with a reprogrammed one, rather of just using a boost controller. Do I?

Reprogrammed ECUs for the Supra TT are VERY $$$. They are in the $1200 range. And they have not been proven to provide a significant increase in performance or safety on BPU(TM) level cars. Their merit shows itself on cars with upgraded Turbo(s). Just be sure you buy your ECU, or have it reprogrammed by a reputable shop that knows what they are doing. And have it tailored to your peculiar car (Driving habits, and Mods). And I would likewise commend taking a look at the AEM Programmable system.

What is a safe boost level to run at BPU(TM)?

The standard consensus is 17-18psi. Some people have taken it higher, but I don’t commend it if you don’t have the cash for a turbo replacement/upgrade.

Which Down-Pipe is recommended?

The RMM (or Rod Millen Motorsports) Cat-less Downpipe is the most commonly used. However a lot of other brands exist. Some down-pipes, such as the Random Technology DP, feature an emissions legal high-flow catalytic converter.

Will a high-flow cat injure performance?

It will have a heap of effect on power output, but not a lot. Its precise effect on HP is not clear, but it in all probability costs a few hp at the most, perchance 5-15hp at BPU(TM) power levels.

What is a Down-Pipe?

It is the division of the exhaust system that connects the outlet of the Turbocharger’s Turbine section to the “Cat-Back” exhaust system. The Downpipe is also where the two catalytic converters are located, as well as the O2 sensor (or sensors in OBD-II cars).

I have an OBD2 car. Can I still install a Down-Pipe?

Yes. But unless the DP has a Catalyst and a second emplacement for an O2 sensor, you will trip your check engine light, unless you get one of those O2 “black boxes”.

Which Exhausts are the loudest?

The Tanabe Racing Medallion, and HKS Hiper Titanium seem to be the two loudest systems.

Which Exhausts are the quietest?

The Tanabe Hyper Medallion, the discontinued Tanabe G-Power Medallion and the GReddy (SP) Street Performance seem to be the quietest. At anything less than full throttle, they are no louder than stock. But at full throttle they seem to “wake up” a bit.

What are some commended exhaust systems?

It depends on your personal preferences. Below I will break down a good deal of of my recommendations based on sure combinings of preferences.

Subtle Styling / Very Low Cost:

-Random Technology (75mm, full stainless steel)

Subtle Styling / Low Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-GReddy Street Performance (80mm)

-Tanabe Super Hyper Medallion (80mm, full stainless steel, 50-state legal)

Subtle Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-ATR (75mm, full stainless steel)

Tasteful Styling / Low-Moderate Sound Level / Low Cost:

-HKS Dragger II (85mm)

Tasteful Styling / Low-Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-GReddy Power Extreme (80-94mm)

-HKS Super Dragger (95mm)

Tasteful Appearance / Moderate Sound Level / High Cost / Super Light:

-Veilside Tear Drop Titanium (90mm, full titanium)

Tasteful-Wild Styling / Low Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-TRD 2nd gen.

Wild Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Low Cost:

-A’PEXi N1

-HKS Hiper (75mm)

Wild Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-A’PEXi GT Spec (95mm, full stainless steel)

-Blitz NUR Spec (80mm, full stainless steel)

-HKS Hiper Carbon/Titanium (75mm, CF wrapped muffler, titanium tip)

Wild Styling / High Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-Tanabe Racing Medallion (80mm, 50 state legal)

Wild Styling / High Sound Level / High Cost / High Flow:

-HKS Hiper Titanium (104mm, titanium muffler)

What is the most inexpensive route to replacing the DP and Cat-Back?

Have a habit performance exhaust shop develop a finish 3″ exhaust system (Turbo-to-Tip). It must cost well less that $400. And then you may use the muffler and exhaust tip of your choice.

Which Fuel Cut Eliminator is recommended?

The GReddy BCC (Boost Cut Controller) is highly recommended.

What does the Fuel Cut Eliminator do?

The factory ECU is programmed to activate a fuel cut if the manifold pressure surpasses 14-15psi. It does this as a safety measure to prevent what the ECU sees as over boosting. The Fuel Cut Eliminator efficaciously eliminates, or at least raises the cut to a higher pressure. A reprogrammed ECU may likewise eliminate this function.

Which boost gauge is recommended?

Any high quality boost gauge will work well. Accuracy is the indispensable feature to look for. Autometer gauges are a good value. The Japanese gauges, A’PEXi, GReddy, HKS, etc., have more features, but at a much higher price.

Where may the boost gauge be installed in the interior?

If you want to mount it in the dash, the two most usual places are the Clock emplacement (which holds a 52mm gauge), and the Air Vent besides it (which holds a 60mm gauge). You may also use an A-Pillar gauge pod.

What is the stock boost pressure?

11-12psi

Are Cam Gears a good modification for the Supra TT?

Yes, they have been shown to provide a 5-15rwhp gain on a BPU(TM)’d car. But to extract their potential, you will have to have them tuned, by a welleducated tuner, on a dyno. And most of the power gains will be seen on the exhaust side. I likewise commend buying cam gears which feature 5-bolts.

Are Under Drive Pulley(s) a good modification for the Supra TT?

Most of the crank-shaft under-drive pulleys require the remotion of the factory torsional damper.

This is from MKIV.com :”this is NOT an external (harmonic) balancer, as the crankshaft is to a complete degree balanced, rather it dampens both the axial twisting couples devised by the firing pulses, and the radial bending moment from the accessory drive belt.”

Basically this device provides crutial isolation amidst the engine driven accessories, and the crankshaft. However, remotion of this may provide a 10-15rwhp gain, but at a cost for long term use.

Do I need to upgrade the ignition when upgrading to BPU(TM)?

The stock ignition system is VERY competent of providing sufficient fire for a BPU(TM)’d car. The stock ignition scheme uses 6 big coils, one for each cylinder. So the scheme is capable of supporting VERY impressive HP levels. You may need to modify to a colder range plug with a tighter gap (see below).

What in regards to the spark plugs, which are commended at BPU(TM) or higher level?

Basically you want similar plugs as stock, but a cooler heat range and a littler gap. The stock plugs are NGK BKR6EP-11 (2978) and are platinum tipped and have a .044 (1.1mm) gap. The idealisti NGK substitute for a altered Supra would be the BKR7E (6097). It is one range cooler (the ’7′), is non-platinum tipped (the lack of the ‘p’) and has a littler .0315 gap (lack of the ‘-11′). This plug is also called the NGK 6097 and they are reasonably inexpensive. Platinum tipped plugs are not desired for high power applications, Iridium plugs are more preferred. Unfortunately their doesn’t seem to be a BKR8E which might be better for high-HP Supras.

Another good plug to try is the Denso Iridium IK22 or IK24. These plugs may last longer than the above brought up NGKs, but are likewise 6 times as expensive. The stock alternate plug would be the IK20, the IK22 is one step cooler, and the IK24 is two steps cooler than stock. The IK22 would be good for ~400rwhp to ~600rwhp. The IK24 would in all likelihood be a good choice above that. Two other plugs ordinarily applied are the NGK 3330 (BCPR7ES) which differ much more from the specifications of the stock plugs than NGK 6097. Also the Rapid Fire #5 used to be very popular, but are more expensive, don’t last as long, and have fallin out of favor. Both of those plugs have been known to cause slight stumbling at idle. Plugs on Supras do not live long, ordinarily around 5,000-10,000 miles. So I commend replacing them with each other oil change.

What is the HKS VPC and GCC?

It is an electronic device, which electronically and physically removes the highly restrictive mass airflow sensor from the intake tract. VPC stands for Vein Pressure Converter. The HKS GCC is a device that allows further fine-tuning of the VPC.

Do I need an after-market Blow off Valve?

It is not utterly required, but it is a good idea. The factory by-pass valve is prone to failure, and an aftermarket BOV is in all likelihood a wise investment for preventing turbo damaging compressor surge. And it sounds cool too. However, it will have to be cited that if you still have the factory mass-air flow sensor, a blow-off valve, which is vented to the atmosphere, may cause stumbling amongst shifts.

Can I run Nitrous Oxide on the Supra TT, even if I am already at BPU(TM) power levels?

Yes. Most people run 50-75 shot wet manifold systems. If you want to run a higher shot than this, you might want to consider a well-designed direct port system. I have seen as much as a 200-shot applied on one of these systems, and an upgraded fuel scheme would be a must.

450hp just isn’t enough, what may I do?

Ah the possiblenesses Basically you are only fixed by your imagination, and your wallet. You know what they say, speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?

The real power lies in Single and Twin turbo upgrades, and the choices are limitless. You may either build a mild motor that puts out 450 RWHP all day long with instant boost response, or a 1000+ RWHP monster.

Unfortunately, things start out getting more difficult after simple BPU(TM) modifications. Modification becomes more than “bolt on Downpipe, gain 50hp”. Things like tuning, parts selection, and sameness combinings of parts become much more important. However, this is the case with ANY high HP car. Actually, even at particularly high power levels, the Supra TT is still having little impact to extract power from than closely any other performance car. But it must be held in mind, that it wouldn’t be as simple as the BPU(TM) bolt-ons.

If you just want something that will toast that pesky Viper GTS. Then focus on a mild single turbo upgrade (T04S04, T60-1, SP57-SP61). Along with this, you must install a front mount intercooler, a fuel controller, fuel pulsation damper bypass and EGT gauge. This is assuming you have done all the BPU(TM) mods, plus BOV, EBC, Cam Gears. With tuning, and a few odds and ends, you must be capable to pull 450-500 RWHP (490-580 crank HP) numbers while on a stock fuel scheme (assuming it is in great condition). This would be a total investment of approximately $6,700-$11,500 in engine/electronic parts (also includes the proper gauges). If you already have the BPU(TM) mods or FMIC, etc., you will spend less than this. The divergence in prices reflects the cost of higher end elements and addition of a HKS VPC to replace the restrictive stock MAF.

The next level would require a altogether upgraded fuel system, and performance cams would be recommended, as well as further electronics (programmable engine management such as the AEM, or VPC/GCC/ECU combo, etc.). This would concede you to run much more spectacular turbos and injectors. You may make it past the 700RWHP range without necessitating to replace the internals of the motor with more inviolable components, even at these power levels, if decently tuned and maintained you must retain a reasonable amount of reliability while still on the stock internals, as numerous humans have overshadowed the 800RWHP level while still running stock bottom ends in their Supras. If you choose to go in front and build up the bottom end, then the skies are the limit as far as power goes. Just make sure to have percentage selection, installation, and tuning done by competent and experienced persons. Although this will have to hold true at ANY level of modification.

Should I install a Turbo Timer?

Absolutely. Unless you don’t mind sitting in your car while it idles down each single time you need to turn the car off. A Turbo timer keeps the engine running for a preset time once you turn off the ignition. So you may remove your keys, and lock up the car and not have to worry in regards to it, it will shut off on it’s own. This is necessary for the life of the turbos. If the turbos are not given time to cool down, it may overheat the oil and cause coking which will block oil flow to the turbos and harm bearings and cook seals.

How much is the Supra’s power output affected by changes in ambient temperatures?

Very noticeably, just as with most turbo cars, the Supra Twin Turbo may be very temperature sensitive. Especially with the stock turbos and intercooler. On a BPU(TM) car, I would not be astonished to see a 10 percent reduction among 50-60deg temperatures, and 90deg plus temperatures

Will the stock clutch hold the power levels of a BPU(TM) car?

It depends on the condition and wear on the stock clutch. If it is in good condition, yes, it will hold the power, gorgeous well in fact, altho you may experience clutch slip while at full boost in high gears such as 5th and 6th. If you drive vigorously, meaning you run at high boost frequently, then the life of the stocker will be GREATLY shortened. Be astonished if you see an extra 10,000 miles after BPU(TM).

Can I resurface my flywheel when replacing the clutch?

It is not recommended. Buy a new Toyota Flywheel.

Can I install a lightweight flywheel?

Yes, but be conscious that they may construct a lot of noise at idle, and may transmit more vibrations and shock to the costly Getrag transmission.

Why is pulling the TRAC fuse beneficial over just turning it off with the switch on the center console?

Just pushing the “Trac Off” button only partially disables the Trac system. It disables the Trac throttle body and TRAC function through the ABS System (on 93.5-96 only), but not the Trac system’s ignition timing retard function. Unplugging the Trac fuse does away with both functions, as well as the 155mph speed limiter, which works through the trac system. The fuse may be found in the main fuse box on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. It ought to be brought up that removing the fuse will cause the TRAC light to stay on, but you’ll get employed to it.

Will the TRAC system improve the cars performance?

NO. The Trac scheme was calibrated to improve traction in slippery conditions. It was not calibrated with performance in mind. When the Trac scheme senses a loss of traction, it comes on hard, cutting power drastically; this will do not one thing but injure performance. I also would not rely on the Trac system for supplying stability at high speeds, if you were to loose control, it would be too slow and clumsy, and would more than likely hamper your attempts to regain control.

How may I remove the factory 155mph speed limiter?

Remove the fuse for the Trac system. The speed limiter works through the Trac throttle body.

What is the Supra TT’s top speed with the Trac fuse removed?

There is some debate on this subject. There are rumors that 180 may be achieved. But by going with the numbers, 168-172mph in stock form seems possible.

What is the Supra TT’s greatest or most complete or best possible theoretical top speed? Can it exceed 200mph with sufficient power?

Lets find out.

The Supra TT with the 6-speed has a stock engine redline of 6800rpm, and a 6th gear symmetry of .79:1, with a rear axle symmetry of 3.13:1. Now we multiply our 6th gear proportionality times our rear axle ratio, and we find out our final gear symmetry is 2.472:1. Now we divide 6800rpm by our total gear reduction of 2.472:1 and we find out our rear axles, and consequently wheels are spinning at 2751rpm at 6800 engine rpms.

Now we need to calculate our tire circumference. The rear tires section width it 255mm, and the sidewall’s aspect symmetry is .40, so our sidewalls are 102mm. Now, to convert this to inches, we divide this by 25.4, which equal’s 4.015 inches. Now multiply this by two, since we have two sidewalls making up the total diameter, and add the wheel diameter of 17″, and we see a total diameter of 25.031 inches. Now to find out our circumference, we multiply that number times pi (3.14), and we find out the circumference is 78.59 inches, now divide that by 12 to convert to feet. And we get 6.549 feet total circumference.

Now multiply our tire’s revolving speed, by the tire’s outside circumference, and we find that the tire is covering 18,016 feet per minute, divide that by the 5280 feet in a mile, and we find we are covering 3.412 miles per minute, now multiply that by the 60 minutes in an hour, and we find we are traveling 204.7miles per hour @ 6800rpm in 6th gear. If the engines redline is increased to 7500rpm, which it often times is, because of a higher flowing turbo. Then our greatest or most complete or best possible speed would be 225.8mph, given sufficient power of course.

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What does BPU(TM) stand for? (BPU(TM) is a trademark of SupraStore.com)

Basic Performance Upgrades. These modifications are: A full length three inch down-pipe (with or with-out high flow cats), 3″ (75mm) or more spectacular cat-back exhaust system, raised boost (18psi), and the required boost cut eliminator (GReddy BCC) necessitated to achieve that boost without activating the factory fuel cut-off at 14-15psi. These are the modifications that have proven to provide the best HP-to-$$$ ratio.

What does the + mean when an individual says BPU(TM)+? And what is APU?

That stands for any further and added power formulating modifications other than the basic BPU(TM) modifications. One “+” refers to Adj. Cam Gears and under-drive pulleys, the second “+” refers to a Fuel controller, ECU upgrade, etc. For instance, a Supra with the BPU(TM) modifications, plus a front-mount intercooler, would be called BPU(TM)+. If you added cam gears to that, it would be BPU(TM)++, and so on. The “BPU(TM)” term is employed until you have an upgraded turbo(s). Then it is referred to as APU, modern performance upgrades. This identification beauteous much covers each modification that may be performed.

What are the original engine modifications I will have to perform?

I commend starting with raising the boost of the stock turbos to roughly 18psi. This will require a quality boost gauge and a boost cut eliminator (GReddy BCC). You will achieve 15 or so PSI with the stock Down Pipe in place. This will provide an addition of approximately 30rwhp. After those modifications are completed, it would be a logical next step to install the Down Pipe and Cat-Back Exhaust at the same time. You will now be at full BPU(TM).

What do all the respective “Free Mods” do?

There are numerous dissimilar “free mods” for the Supra TT. I will cover just a few of them here. The ones I will cover fall into three categories, boost control, EGR disabling, and TTC or True Twin Conversion.

Three of the boost control mods are: Bleeder-T Mod, Clamp Mod, and the VSV Bypass Mod. Each of these modifications raise boost levels without the use of a boost controller. But you have to keep a close eye on your boost gauge, and make sure they are not permitting the turbos to boost too high (18psi is a safe level).

The next mods, are the unfeigned twin conversion mods (or TTC). This modification disables the Sequential twin turbo operation, and causes the turbos to run perpetually in parallel (both on at the same time). This is supposed to concede for more or less better mid-range power (before the secondary turbo would commonly come online) and allows for a smoother power band, without the abrupt boost increase caused by the transition from important to secondary operation. However, this does noticeably decrease low-end power, and increments exhaust noise levels, and accordingly may not be desirable on the street. Two types of the TTC mod are, the traditionalisti TTC mod which includes 2 methods, wiring the actuators, or installing a one way valve, and the Electronic TTC mod (ETTC).

The last mod I will talk about is the EGR mod. This disables the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system, which is meant for emissions, and therefore, this modification is for off-road use only. This mod is supposed to prevent the super heating of the number 5 and 6 cylinders, which may cause burnt valves.

How much power will my car make at BPU(TM)?

It varies from car-to-car, and the conditions as well as tuning. Most BPU(TM)-only Supra Twin Turbos, dyno amidst 370 and 410 horsepower at the rear wheels. This is normally achieved with moderate temperatures, a reset ECU (to erase anything bad the ECU may have learned), and ofttimes a little bit of high-octane un-leaded race fuel. On the street, power will be reduced, specially in poor weather, but at least 90 percent of the power will have to be retained.

What kind of 1/4 mile ETs and trap speeds ought to I run at BPU(TM)-only?

It varies WIDELY depending on driver skill. As well as track conditions, elevation above sea level, ambient temperatures, humidity, and pre-race preparation. But most fall amidst 12.3 to 12.9 ets with 112 to 119mph trap speeds on street tires. Times may drop well into the 11s with drag radials, a good driver, and good conditions, as well as proper pre-race preparation.

What is a BPU(TM)’d Supra TT’s top speed?

Speeds in the mid-high 180mph range must be achievable. Once the speed-limiter is disabled, by pulling the “TRAC” fuse of course.

Will the life of my Engine and Drivetrain be adversely affected with the BPU(TM) mods?

Yes, but not by a significant amount. If the car is maintained properly, and the car is treated with a lot of respect for the components, you must maintain much of the power train’s life. Which taking into account the fact that the Supra is by far one of the most dependable and lasting sports cars, it will last longer than most well maintained STOCK sports cars. The only Drivetrain parts that will see a significantly shortened life will be the stock clutch. It will more than likely not last much longer than 8-10k miles once at BPU(TM). This in particular holds unfeigned if the car is making repeated high speed runs using 5th and 6th gear at wide open throttle. If your stock clutch has high mileage on it, or is already starting to slip, you will need to plan on a new high-performance clutch. Also the stock turbos will be subject to a somewhat shortened life span (how short will depend on how you drive and maintain the car, as well as how much boost you will run)

What’s the reliability of a 600hp Supra Turbo?

Chassis, electrical, and suspension elements must see little effect on reliability on street driven Supras. The stock 2JZ-GTE engine must hold up gorgeous well to this power level. Just how long depends on maintenance, and how hard you drive it, and how often. But quintessentially Supras may go for years at this power level. The transmission reliability will depend on whether it’s an Automatic or Manual. A stock automatic will not hold this much power, a built transmission will be required, and it’s reliability will depend on it’s design and construction. The 6spd Manual will have to hold up just fine, as well as the rear differential and axles.

The only real reliability worries at these low power levels would surround the actual modifications you perform. Excluding installation short-comings, the constituents utilized, even very high quality ones, may fall short of factory factor reliability, as the built in compromises that subsist in everything, would lean more towards the side of uttermost performance, than of uttermost reliability (Keep in mind we are talking in regards to a Toyota here, whose reliabilty standards are peculiarly high) This may include fuel scheme components, turbo components, and particularly electronic wizardry. Basically a set-up that is either VERY well conceived, or utilizes OE elements as much as possible, without over burdening them, would posses *near* stock reliability. And tuning of the components, and element selection, and matching, would play a HUGE role in this.

What are the power limits of the respective factory elements (Differential, Transmission, Motor, etc.)?

There have in truth not been sufficient failures to genuinely pin point a limit for the respective power-train components. The motor could fail at factory power levels if it was running dangerously lean. But when well tuned, the motors internals (Pistons, Rods, Crank, Head Gasket etc) are authenti to 700rwhp. But of course at these power levels, if the engine is not set-up and tuned properly, it is in a literal sense a bomb waiting to go off, nonetheless this would be just as unfeigned with a built motor. Some owners have pushed their stock internals to the limit and have well exceeded 800rwhp, and even neared 900rwhp. I still don’t grasp how such an over built motor made it past the bean counters at Toyota Corporate.

The 6-speed Getrag is ridiculously strong for an OE transmission. Its limit’s will be affected primarily by driving technique, such as launching, and whether or not power shifting is used. Even driven hard, the Getrag must hold up somewhat well with 700RWHP. If you treat it with some respect, it will have to be competent to handle around 800RWHP or more, even though outstanding care and respect will need to be practiced at those levels.

Differential, axle, CV Joint, and drive shaft failures are a VERY rare occurrence. So I don’t have much selective information on their failure limits. On street tires, it would be almost out of the question to break any of these constituents at ANY power level. The tires would spun before they would put the driveline beneath that kind of strain. The tires act sort of like a circuit breaker. If you run drag slicks, this does not hold true of course, yet they have proven themselves to be 10 and even 9 second capable.

Will drivability, interior noise levels, and low-end power be adversely affected with the BPU(TM) mods?

Drivability is not adversely affected. Interior noise level depends on the exhaust system you choose. Some will make it far louder; a great deal of will actually make it quieter. But most are just a little bit louder than stock. But the added dBs are also combined with a MUCH sweeter exhaust note, so it’s unquestionably worth it. And the interior of the Supra is finelooking quiet anyway, so on the highway, it will be VERY livable. As far as low-end power goes, the down-pipe will mainly decrease Turbo Lag. So low-end power and response is much bettered over stock.

Will emissions be adversely affected by the BPU(TM) mods?

As long as a high-flow cat is used, emissions ought to not be effected, and you ought to still pass visual inspection. If you run without catalytic converters, you are doing so at your own risk, and you would not pass visual or emissions testing.

Will fuel mileage be adversely affected by the BPU(TM) mods?

If driven calmly, as in light throttle, mileage ought to not be significantly affected. Mileage will mainly decrease for the duration of however, if you drive “vigorously”, more power equals more burned fuel I am afraid.

Should I install an “Intake” (Open Element Filter)?

This is a bit of a yes and no answer. The stock filter assemblage is a flow restriction, and an open element intake would increase potential flow. However, it will likewise draw in more heated engine compartment air, which may injure performance. My counsel is to either alter the stock filter box, or install a cool air induction box, like the Max Air. An added bonus of the open element filters, is that they grant you to without apparent effort listen the necessary turbo and by-pass valve.

What regarding the stock intercooler?

The stock intercooler does a decent occupation up till when it comes to 17psi on the stock turbos, after that you would probably observe a significant gain, in particular in warmer temperatures, with a nice front mount intercooler. However, keep in mind it will block galore of the airflow to the radiator, as well as decreasing response slightly.

Should I replace the factory rubber Intercooler hoses with aftermarket metal hoses?

It wouldn’t hurt. But it won’t help a lot either. At the most you may more or less increase throttle response, but at least it will look nicer.

What with regards to the fuel system, are the stock injectors and fuel pump huge sufficient for BPU(TM)?

Yes, the stock fuel system is very safe and dependable to 450RWHP, though I would commend a fuel pulsation damper bypass. Anything over that, and I would highly commend having the car dyno’d, and using a wide-band O2 sensor (not a cheap A/F gauge connected to the stock O2) to check the fuel proportionality at your high boost setting. 11.5:1 would be a safe fuel ratio.

What are the stock injectors rated at?

540cc/min

Would the Supra gain from a fuel controller?

BPU(TM)’d Supras run a little on the rich side as far as fuel ratios go. This hurts power. What it does do is provide a safety margin that makes engine harm through detonation unlikely. If you get a fuel controller, and tune it decently (on a dyno, with an precise EGT gauge, and a high band O2 (The Stock O2 sensors are not accurate), then you must be competent to gain a noticeable amount of power. One of the most general electronic fuel controllers is the A’PEXi S-AFC. The Fields SFC is good too.

What will have to I use to increase my boost level, an Electronic Boost Controller, or a Manual BC?

Using an EBC is the safest way to raise boost, it will prevent spiking and over-boosting. But it actually comes down to your budget. If you may afford an EBC, get one. If you can’t, go with a MBC. And always keep an eye on that boost gauge. And whatsoever you are using to control boost, do not forget to not get carried away, I don’t commend going steadily over 18psi.

What is the best Electronic Boost Controller?

There actually is no BEST. Although the A’PEXi AVC-R is a nice unit, it provides much more control over boost than other EBCs, but it is likewise more complex to install, and tune. The new Blitz unit is likewise nice. Most of the big manufacturers make decent units. Just stay clear from fuzzy-logic equipped models if you still have the sequential stock turbos, they will become “confused” by the unnatural conduct of the sequential system.

When installing my EBC, do I connect it to both of the Turbo’s Wastegates?

The Primary Turbo is the only one with a wastegate. When in full twin turbo mode, the boost of both Turbos is regulated by the important turbo’s wastegate. So, only connect it to the Primary’s.

Some people say I need to replace my ECU with a reprogrammed one, rather of just using a boost controller. Do I?

Reprogrammed ECUs for the Supra TT are VERY $$$. They are in the $1200 range. And they have not been proven to provide a substantial increase in performance or safety on BPU(TM) level cars. Their merit shows itself on cars with upgraded Turbo(s). Just be sure you buy your ECU, or have it reprogrammed by a reputable shop that knows what they are doing. And have it tailored to your queer car (Driving habits, and Mods). And I would also commend taking a look at the AEM Programmable system.

What is a safe boost level to run at BPU(TM)?

The frequent consensus is 17-18psi. Some people have taken it higher, but I don’t commend it if you don’t have the cash for a turbo replacement/upgrade.

Which Down-Pipe is recommended?

The RMM (or Rod Millen Motorsports) Cat-less Downpipe is the most normally used. However a lot of other brands exist. Some down-pipes, such as the Random Technology DP, feature an emissions legal high-flow catalytic converter.

Will a high-flow cat hurt performance?

It will have a lot of effect on power output, but not a lot. Its precise effect on HP is not clear, but it probably costs a few hp at the most, perhaps 5-15hp at BPU(TM) power levels.

What is a Down-Pipe?

It is the division of the exhaust scheme that connects the outlet of the Turbocharger’s Turbine division to the “Cat-Back” exhaust system. The Downpipe is likewise where the two catalytic converters are located, as well as the O2 sensor (or sensors in OBD-II cars).

I have an OBD2 car. Can I still install a Down-Pipe?

Yes. But unless the DP has a Catalyst and a second emplacement for an O2 sensor, you will trip your check engine light, unless you get one of those O2 “black boxes”.

Which Exhausts are the loudest?

The Tanabe Racing Medallion, and HKS Hiper Titanium seem to be the two loudest systems.

Which Exhausts are the quietest?

The Tanabe Hyper Medallion, the discontinued Tanabe G-Power Medallion and the GReddy (SP) Street Performance seem to be the quietest. At anything less than full throttle, they are no louder than stock. But at full throttle they seem to “wake up” a bit.

What are numerous commended exhaust systems?

It depends on your personal preferences. Below I will break down a great deal of of my recommendations based on sure compoundings of preferences.

Subtle Styling / Very Low Cost:

-Random Technology (75mm, full stainless steel)

Subtle Styling / Low Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-GReddy Street Performance (80mm)

-Tanabe Super Hyper Medallion (80mm, full stainless steel, 50-state legal)

Subtle Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-ATR (75mm, full stainless steel)

Tasteful Styling / Low-Moderate Sound Level / Low Cost:

-HKS Dragger II (85mm)

Tasteful Styling / Low-Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-GReddy Power Extreme (80-94mm)

-HKS Super Dragger (95mm)

Tasteful Appearance / Moderate Sound Level / High Cost / Super Light:

-Veilside Tear Drop Titanium (90mm, full titanium)

Tasteful-Wild Styling / Low Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-TRD 2nd gen.

Wild Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Low Cost:

-A’PEXi N1

-HKS Hiper (75mm)

Wild Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-A’PEXi GT Spec (95mm, full stainless steel)

-Blitz NUR Spec (80mm, full stainless steel)

-HKS Hiper Carbon/Titanium (75mm, CF wrapped muffler, titanium tip)

Wild Styling / High Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-Tanabe Racing Medallion (80mm, 50 state legal)

Wild Styling / High Sound Level / High Cost / High Flow:

-HKS Hiper Titanium (104mm, titanium muffler)

What is the most inexpensive route to replacing the DP and Cat-Back?

Have a habit performance exhaust shop give rise to a finish 3″ exhaust system (Turbo-to-Tip). It will have to cost well less that $400. And then you may use the muffler and exhaust tip of your choice.

Which Fuel Cut Eliminator is recommended?

The GReddy BCC (Boost Cut Controller) is highly recommended.

What does the Fuel Cut Eliminator do?

The factory ECU is programmed to activate a fuel cut if the manifold pressure surpasses 14-15psi. It does this as a safety measure to prevent what the ECU sees as over boosting. The Fuel Cut Eliminator efficaciously eliminates, or at least raises the cut to a higher pressure. A reprogrammed ECU may likewise eliminate this function.

Which boost gauge is recommended?

Any high quality boost gauge will work well. Accuracy is the essential feature to look for. Autometer gauges are a good value. The Japanese gauges, A’PEXi, GReddy, HKS, etc., have more features, but at a much higher price.

Where may the boost gauge be installed in the interior?

If you want to mount it in the dash, the two most usual places are the Clock emplacement (which holds a 52mm gauge), and the Air Vent besides it (which holds a 60mm gauge). You may likewise use an A-Pillar gauge pod.

What is the stock boost pressure?

11-12psi

Are Cam Gears a good modification for the Supra TT?

Yes, they have been shown to provide a 5-15rwhp gain on a BPU(TM)’d car. But to extract their potential, you ought to have them tuned, by a welleducated tuner, on a dyno. And most of the power gains will be seen on the exhaust side. I also commend buying cam gears which feature 5-bolts.

Are Under Drive Pulley(s) a good modification for the Supra TT?

Most of the crank-shaft under-drive pulleys require the remotion of the factory torsional damper.

This is from MKIV.com :”this is NOT an external (harmonic) balancer, as the crankshaft is completely balanced, rather it dampens both the axial twisting couples invented by the firing pulses, and the radial bending moment from the accessory drive belt.”

Basically this device provides crutial isolation amid the engine driven accessories, and the crankshaft. However, remotion of this may provide a 10-15rwhp gain, but at a cost for long term use.

Do I need to upgrade the ignition when upgrading to BPU(TM)?

The stock ignition scheme is VERY competent of supplying sufficient fire for a BPU(TM)’d car. The stock ignition scheme uses 6 big coils, one for each cylinder. So the scheme is capable of supporting VERY impressive HP levels. You may need to change to a colder range plug with a tighter gap (see below).

What with regards to the spark plugs, which are commended at BPU(TM) or higher level?

Basically you want similar plugs as stock, but a cooler heat range and a littler gap. The stock plugs are NGK BKR6EP-11 (2978) and are platinum tipped and have a .044 (1.1mm) gap. The idealisti NGK substitute for a modified Supra would be the BKR7E (6097). It is one range cooler (the ’7′), is non-platinum tipped (the lack of the ‘p’) and has a littler .0315 gap (lack of the ‘-11′). This plug is also called the NGK 6097 and they are reasonably inexpensive. Platinum tipped plugs are not desired for high power applications, Iridium plugs are more preferred. Unfortunately their doesn’t seem to be a BKR8E which might be better for high-HP Supras.

Another good plug to undertake is the Denso Iridium IK22 or IK24. These plugs may last longer than the above noted NGKs, but are also 6 times as expensive. The stock substitute plug would be the IK20, the IK22 is one step cooler, and the IK24 is two steps cooler than stock. The IK22 would be good for ~400rwhp to ~600rwhp. The IK24 would in all likelihood be a good choice above that. Two other plugs commonly employed are the NGK 3330 (BCPR7ES) which differ much more from the specifications of the stock plugs than NGK 6097. Also the Rapid Fire #5 applied to be very popular, but are more expensive, don’t last as long, and have fallin out of favor. Both of those plugs have been known to cause slight stumbling at idle. Plugs on Supras do not live long, ordinarily around 5,000-10,000 miles. So I commend replacing them with each other oil change.

What is the HKS VPC and GCC?

It is an electronic device, which electronically and physically removes the highly restrictive mass airflow sensor from the intake tract. VPC stands for Vein Pressure Converter. The HKS GCC is a device that allows further fine-tuning of the VPC.

Do I need an after-market Blow off Valve?

It is not perfectly required, but it is a good idea. The factory by-pass valve is prone to failure, and an aftermarket BOV is in all probability a wise investment for preventing turbo detrimental compressor surge. And it sounds cool too. However, it must be brought up that if you still have the factory mass-air flow sensor, a blow-off valve, which is vented to the atmosphere, may cause stumbling among shifts.

Can I run Nitrous Oxide on the Supra TT, even if I am already at BPU(TM) power levels?

Yes. Most people run 50-75 shot wet manifold systems. If you want to run a higher shot than this, you might want to consider a well-designed direct port system. I have seen as much as a 200-shot employed on one of these systems, and an upgraded fuel scheme would be a must.

450hp just isn’t enough, what may I do?

Ah the possiblenesses Basically you are only fixed by your imagination, and your wallet. You recognise what they say, speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?

The real power lies in Single and Twin turbo upgrades, and the choices are limitless. You may either build a mild motor that puts out 450 RWHP all day long with instant boost response, or a 1000+ RWHP monster.

Unfortunately, things get started getting more difficult after simple BPU(TM) modifications. Modification becomes more than “bolt on Downpipe, gain 50hp”. Things like tuning, elements selection, and sameness compoundings of constituents become much more important. However, this is the case with ANY high HP car. Actually, even at specially high power levels, the Supra TT is still more comfortable to extract power from than almost any other performance car. But it will have to be kept in mind, that it wouldn’t be as simple as the BPU(TM) bolt-ons.

If you just want something that will toast that pesky Viper GTS. Then focus on a mild single turbo upgrade (T04S04, T60-1, SP57-SP61). Along with this, you will have to install a front mount intercooler, a fuel controller, fuel pulsation damper bypass and EGT gauge. This is assuming you have done all the BPU(TM) mods, plus BOV, EBC, Cam Gears. With tuning, and a few odds and ends, you will have to be competent to pull 450-500 RWHP (490-580 crank HP) numbers while on a stock fuel scheme (assuming it is in outstanding condition). This would be a total investment of approximately $6,700-$11,500 in engine/electronic constituents (also includes the proper gauges). If you already have the BPU(TM) mods or FMIC, etc., you will spend less than this. The divergence in prices reflects the cost of higher end constituents and addition of a HKS VPC to replace the restrictive stock MAF.

The next level would require a exclusively upgraded fuel system, and performance cams would be recommended, as well as further electronics (programmable engine management such as the AEM, or VPC/GCC/ECU combo, etc.). This would grant you to run much more prominent turbos and injectors. You may make it past the 700RWHP range without requiring to replace the internals of the motor with more inviolable components, even at these power levels, if in the right manner tuned and maintained you must retain a reasonable amount of reliability while still on the stock internals, as a good deal of persons have eclipsed the 800RWHP level while still running stock bottom ends in their Supras. If you choose to go in front and build up the bottom end, then the skies are the limit as far as power goes. Just make sure to have percentage selection, installation, and tuning done by competent and experienced persons. Although this must hold unfeigned at ANY level of modification.

Should I install a Turbo Timer?

Absolutely. Unless you don’t mind sitting in your car while it idles down each single time you need to turn the car off. A Turbo timer keeps the engine running for a preset time once you turn off the ignition. So you may remove your keys, and lock up the car and not have to worry regarding it, it will shut off on it’s own. This is necessary for the life of the turbos. If the turbos are not given time to cool down, it may overheat the oil and cause coking which will block oil flow to the turbos and harm bearings and cook seals.

How much is the Supra’s power output affected by changes in ambient temperatures?

Very noticeably, just as with most turbo cars, the Supra Twin Turbo may be very temperature sensitive. Especially with the stock turbos and intercooler. On a BPU(TM) car, I would not be astonished to see a 10 percent reduction amid 50-60deg temperatures, and 90deg plus temperatures

Will the stock clutch hold the power levels of a BPU(TM) car?

It depends on the condition and wear on the stock clutch. If it is in good condition, yes, it will hold the power, beauteous well in fact, altho you may experience clutch slip while at full boost in high gears such as 5th and 6th. If you drive vigorously, meaning you run at high boost frequently, then the life of the stocker will be GREATLY shortened. Be amazed if you see an extra 10,000 miles after BPU(TM).

Can I resurface my flywheel when replacing the clutch?

It is not recommended. Buy a new Toyota Flywheel.

Can I install a lightweight flywheel?

Yes, but be conscious that they may develop a lot of noise at idle, and may transmit more vibrations and shock to the pricey Getrag transmission.

Why is pulling the TRAC fuse beneficial over just turning it off with the switch on the center console?

Just pushing the “Trac Off” button only partially disables the Trac system. It disables the Trac throttle body and TRAC function through the ABS System (on 93.5-96 only), but not the Trac system’s ignition timing retard function. Unplugging the Trac fuse does away with both functions, as well as the 155mph speed limiter, which works through the trac system. The fuse may be found in the main fuse box on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. It must be cited that removing the fuse will cause the TRAC light to stay on, but you’ll get employed to it.

Will the TRAC scheme improve the cars performance?

NO. The Trac scheme was calibrated to improve traction in slippery conditions. It was not calibrated with performance in mind. When the Trac scheme senses a loss of traction, it comes on hard, cutting power drastically; this will do not one thing but hurt performance. I likewise would not rely on the Trac system for providing stability at high speeds, if you were to loose control, it would be too slow and clumsy, and would more than likely hamper your attempts to regain control.

How may I remove the factory 155mph speed limiter?

Remove the fuse for the Trac system. The speed limiter works through the Trac throttle body.

What is the Supra TT’s top speed with the Trac fuse removed?

There is a good deal of debate on this subject. There are rumors that 180 may be achieved. But by going with the numbers, 168-172mph in stock form seems possible.

What is the Supra TT’s greatest or most complete or best possible theoretical top speed? Can it exceed 200mph with sufficient power?

Lets find out.

The Supra TT with the 6-speed has a stock engine redline of 6800rpm, and a 6th gear symmetry of .79:1, with a rear axle symmetry of 3.13:1. Now we multiply our 6th gear ratio times our rear axle ratio, and we find out our final gear ratio is 2.472:1. Now we divide 6800rpm by our total gear reduction of 2.472:1 and we find out our rear axles, and hence wheels are spinning at 2751rpm at 6800 engine rpms.

Now we need to calculate our tire circumference. The rear tires section width it 255mm, and the sidewall’s aspect symmetry is .40, so our sidewalls are 102mm. Now, to convert this to inches, we divide this by 25.4, which equal’s 4.015 inches. Now multiply this by two, since we have two sidewalls making up the total diameter, and add the wheel diameter of 17″, and we see a total diameter of 25.031 inches. Now to find out our circumference, we multiply that number times pi (3.14), and we find out the circumference is 78.59 inches, now divide that by 12 to convert to feet. And we get 6.549 feet total circumference.

Now multiply our tire’s revolving speed, by the tire’s outside circumference, and we find that the tire is covering 18,016 feet per minute, divide that by the 5280 feet in a mile, and we find we are covering 3.412 miles per minute, now multiply that by the 60 minutes in an hour, and we find we are traveling 204.7miles per hour @ 6800rpm in 6th gear. If the engines redline is increased to 7500rpm, which it often times is, because of a higher flowing turbo. Then our greatest or most complete or best possible speed would be 225.8mph, given sufficient power of course.

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